Milady Standard Cosmetology
Chapter 21: Haircoloring
Comprehensive 50-Question Workbook Exam Study Guide
with Verified Solutions (2026 Update)
Question Types: Multiple Choice (40) | Scenario-Based (8) | Ordering/Labeling (2)
Domain Weighting
Module Topic Questions
I Haircolor Chemistry & Safety 8
II Color Theory (Level, Tone, 8
Primary/Secondary)
III Types of Hair Color & 10
Lighteners
IV Application Techniques 10
(Virgin, Retouch, Foil,
Balayage)
V Formulation & Mixing 8
(Volume, Ratio, Patch/Strand
Test)
VI Troubleshooting & Color 6
Correction
Total: 50 Questions
,Domain I: Haircolor Chemistry & Safety — Quick Reference
A. Haircolor Chemistry
Concept Definition
Oxidative haircolor Requires developer (hydrogen peroxide) to
create chemical reaction; lifts natural
pigment and deposits artificial color
Non-oxidative haircolor Temporary and semi-permanent (no
developer); only deposits color on cuticle
or lightly penetrates cortex
Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) Oxidizing agent; releases oxygen to lighten
natural melanin and couple with dye
precursors
Developer volumes 10 vol (3%) – deposit only; 20 vol (6%) –
lift 1-2 levels; 30 vol (9%) – lift 2-3 levels;
40 vol (12%) – lift 3-4 levels
Alkalizing agent Swells cuticle, allows penetration;
ammonia is most common (pungent odor)
B. Safety Precautions
Requirement Detail
Patch test Required 24-48 hours before service for
aniline derivative (oxidative) tint – check
allergic reaction (skin test behind ear or
inside elbow)
Protective gloves Must wear during entire color service
Protective cape Use tint cape (stain-resistant)
Petroleum (barrier cream) Apply to hairline and ears to prevent skin
staining
Ventilation Adequate ventilation required when using
ammonia-based color
Manufacturer instructions Follow mixing ratios, processing times, and
safety warnings
C. Hair Structure in Coloring
Layer Role in Coloring
Cuticle Must be lifted (swollen) for color
penetration; damaged cuticle leads to
uneven color, fading
Cortex Contains melanin (eumelanin black/brown,
pheomelanin red/yellow); where oxidation
color develops
Medulla No significant role in color
, Domain II: Color Theory — Quick Reference
A. Level System (1-10)
Level Description Example
1 Black Darkest natural
2 Very dark brown Natural black-brown
3 Dark brown Most common medium-
dark
4 Medium brown Light brown
5 Light brown Brown with red/gold
undertones
6 Dark blonde Dark blonde (almost light
brown)
7 Medium blonde Blonde with gold
8 Light blonde Light blonde – yellow gold
9 Very light blonde Pale yellow
10 Lightest blonde Platinum (pale yellow-
white)
B. Tone (Hue) – Underlying Pigment
Level Predominant Undertone Warm/Cool
1-2 Blue Cool
3-4 Blue-red (violet) Neutral-cool
5-6 Red (orange-red) Warm
7-8 Gold (yellow-orange) Warm
9-10 Pale yellow Cool-warm
C. Color Theory Terms
Term Definition
Primary colors Red, blue, yellow – cannot be created by
mixing
Secondary colors Orange (red+yellow), green (blue+yellow),
violet (blue+red)
Tertiary colors Mix of primary + secondary
Complementary colors Opposite on color wheel (violet/yellow,
blue/orange, red/green) – neutralize each
other
Law of color Warm tones cancel cool tones (and vice
versa) when mixed in correct proportion
Chapter 21: Haircoloring
Comprehensive 50-Question Workbook Exam Study Guide
with Verified Solutions (2026 Update)
Question Types: Multiple Choice (40) | Scenario-Based (8) | Ordering/Labeling (2)
Domain Weighting
Module Topic Questions
I Haircolor Chemistry & Safety 8
II Color Theory (Level, Tone, 8
Primary/Secondary)
III Types of Hair Color & 10
Lighteners
IV Application Techniques 10
(Virgin, Retouch, Foil,
Balayage)
V Formulation & Mixing 8
(Volume, Ratio, Patch/Strand
Test)
VI Troubleshooting & Color 6
Correction
Total: 50 Questions
,Domain I: Haircolor Chemistry & Safety — Quick Reference
A. Haircolor Chemistry
Concept Definition
Oxidative haircolor Requires developer (hydrogen peroxide) to
create chemical reaction; lifts natural
pigment and deposits artificial color
Non-oxidative haircolor Temporary and semi-permanent (no
developer); only deposits color on cuticle
or lightly penetrates cortex
Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) Oxidizing agent; releases oxygen to lighten
natural melanin and couple with dye
precursors
Developer volumes 10 vol (3%) – deposit only; 20 vol (6%) –
lift 1-2 levels; 30 vol (9%) – lift 2-3 levels;
40 vol (12%) – lift 3-4 levels
Alkalizing agent Swells cuticle, allows penetration;
ammonia is most common (pungent odor)
B. Safety Precautions
Requirement Detail
Patch test Required 24-48 hours before service for
aniline derivative (oxidative) tint – check
allergic reaction (skin test behind ear or
inside elbow)
Protective gloves Must wear during entire color service
Protective cape Use tint cape (stain-resistant)
Petroleum (barrier cream) Apply to hairline and ears to prevent skin
staining
Ventilation Adequate ventilation required when using
ammonia-based color
Manufacturer instructions Follow mixing ratios, processing times, and
safety warnings
C. Hair Structure in Coloring
Layer Role in Coloring
Cuticle Must be lifted (swollen) for color
penetration; damaged cuticle leads to
uneven color, fading
Cortex Contains melanin (eumelanin black/brown,
pheomelanin red/yellow); where oxidation
color develops
Medulla No significant role in color
, Domain II: Color Theory — Quick Reference
A. Level System (1-10)
Level Description Example
1 Black Darkest natural
2 Very dark brown Natural black-brown
3 Dark brown Most common medium-
dark
4 Medium brown Light brown
5 Light brown Brown with red/gold
undertones
6 Dark blonde Dark blonde (almost light
brown)
7 Medium blonde Blonde with gold
8 Light blonde Light blonde – yellow gold
9 Very light blonde Pale yellow
10 Lightest blonde Platinum (pale yellow-
white)
B. Tone (Hue) – Underlying Pigment
Level Predominant Undertone Warm/Cool
1-2 Blue Cool
3-4 Blue-red (violet) Neutral-cool
5-6 Red (orange-red) Warm
7-8 Gold (yellow-orange) Warm
9-10 Pale yellow Cool-warm
C. Color Theory Terms
Term Definition
Primary colors Red, blue, yellow – cannot be created by
mixing
Secondary colors Orange (red+yellow), green (blue+yellow),
violet (blue+red)
Tertiary colors Mix of primary + secondary
Complementary colors Opposite on color wheel (violet/yellow,
blue/orange, red/green) – neutralize each
other
Law of color Warm tones cancel cool tones (and vice
versa) when mixed in correct proportion
