approved Answers 2025/2026
Two types of wind to consider when dealing with swell are: - correct
answer onshore and offshore wind.
Onshore winds blow in what direction and have what effect? - correct
answer onshore winds blow from the ocean to shore, and can reduce wave
steepness.
Offshore winds blow in what direction and have what effect? - correct
answer offshore winds blow from the shore to ocean, and slow the speed
of waves.
How can tide affect how swell breaks on the shore? - correct answer tide
changes the place where the water meets land, changing the contours of
the shallow water where swell breaks into breakers.
Describe swell refraction. - correct answer area of swell hits an area of
shallower water (reef, rock, etc) and experiences drag. Rest of swell curves
around this area experiencing drag.
Swell with ________ wave periods will refract more than swell with
__________ wave period. - correct answer longer, shorter.
Swell decay: - correct answer how quickly waves lose energy as they
travel from their initial source.
, What factors are important when deciding how swell will break on a beach?
- correct answer local conditions, swell height/period, swell direction.
What factor isn't important when deciding how swell will break on a beach?
- correct answer great circle routes.
What factor doesn't influence how swell will decay? - correct answer
surface water.
True or false: offshore winds blow from the ocean onto the shore, creating
chop on the incoming swell. - correct answer false.
Tide: - correct answer movement of earth's oceans up and down due to
gravitational pull of moon/sun.
Spring tide: - correct answer sun and moon line up, creating higher and
lower tides than usual.
Neap tide: - correct answer weaker tides when sun and moon are at right
angles to each other.
Tide table: - correct answer chart displaying tidal patterns.
How many tide cycles will you encounter per day? - correct answer two
(so two high tides and two low tides. )
Tidal range: - correct answer difference between highest tide and lowest
tide.