Summary
Samenvatting met formulaties vormen
- Course
- Institution
kleine samenvatting met belangrijkste formulaties van bepaalde cosmetica zoals ook waarschijnlijk op het examen wordt gevraagd
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COSMETOLOGIENMF
1. AZ zoals histidine
2. Ionen zoals Cl-, Na+, K+
3. Lactaten zoals Na-lactaat
4. PCA = pyrrolidoncarbonzuur
5. Ureum
6. Suikers
7. Ureumzuur, glucosamines, creatine, NH3
Alfa-hydroxyzuren
1. Glycolzuur
2. Melkzuur
3. Poly-OH: lactobionzuur, gluconzuur = MW hoger, irritatie lager
4. Beta-OH: salicylzuur
Hydraterende gezichtscrème
1. Water
2. Lipiden: stearinezuur, cetearyl alcohol, squaleen
3. Polyol: sorbitol, glycerol
4. Tensioactieve stof/ emulgator: polysorbaat 40, TEA-oleaat
5. “Speciale” bevochtigers: polyamine-suiker condensaat
6. Conserveermiddel: phenoxyethanol, methyl- of propylparabeen
7. Parfum
Zonnefilters
Organische absorbeerders
1. PABA (-derivaten)
2. Cinnamaten UV-B
3. Kamferderivaten UV-B
4. Benzofenonen UV-B en UV-A
5. Dibenzoylmethaanderivaten UV-A
6. Octocryleen UV-B
7. Salicylaten UV-B
NIEUWE
1. ‘dicamphor sulfonic acid’ UV-A
2. Trisiloxanederivaten UV-A en UV-B
3. Polysiloxane UV-B
4. Triazonederivaten UV-B
5. Triazolylderivaten UV-A en UV-B
6. Trazinederivaten UV-A en UV-B
7. ‘dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate’ UV-A
, Anorganische reflectoren
1. ZnO
2. Titaanoxide
3. Calamine
4. Mg-silicaat
5. Fe2O3
Actieve stoffen bij bescherming tegen zonnestraling
1. vitPP = vitB3 tegen roodheden, ontstekingen
Artificiële bruiner = bruinen zonder zon
1. Dihydroxyaceton
2. Walnootextract
3. Juglone (5-OH-1,4-naftochinon)
Vitamine E
= radicalenvanger
Best samen met vitC
Andere stoffen
1. Allantoïne, azuleen, vitA met plantenextracten zoals aloe vera = helend, ontzwellend
2. DEET = insectenrepellens
3. Lokale anesthetica niet toegestaan ENKEL menthol = verfrissend
4. NMFs zoals ureum, glucose
5. Filmogene substanties zoals collageen, elastine
Tensiden
Anionische
1. Zepen
2. Alkylsulfaten: natriumlaurylsulfaat
3. Alkylethersulfaten
4. Vetzuureiwitcondensaten
5. Sulfonaten
6. Alkylsulfosuccinaten
7. Vetzuurarcosiden
8. Alkyletherfosfaten
9. Alkylisethionaten
Kationische (enkel in conditioner)
1. Quaternaire stikstofverbindingen: benzalkoniumchloride, alkylpyridiniumzouten
2. Amine-oxiden: cocoamineoxide (schuimstabilisator)
3. Hoogpolymeren: derivaten glucose, PVP, siliconen
Niet-ionische
1. Vetzuuralkanolamiden: vetzuurmonoethanolamide (schuimstabilisator +
viscositeitsverhoger)
2. Ethyleenoxidederivaten: polysorbaat
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