CHAPTER 1
CHEMICAL IN COSMETICS
75
, INTRODUCTION
Cosmetic (Make-up) has been around for several centuries already. Among the more notable
people to wear these beauty enhancers are the Egyptians. In fact the first known historical record of using
cosmetics to enhance beauty or parts of the face and body was in Egypt during the First Dynasty around the
years 3100 - 2907 BC. Make up eventually evolved from the Egyptian kohl to the French rouge, which was
used to make the lips red and the cheeks blush.
Today, cosmetics plays a vital role for both men and women everywhere. They are used especially
by women of practically all walks of life. Most of these preparations are harmless, organic or hypoallergenic
, provided their ingredients are whole-some and pure, that all poisonous materials are excluded, that care
is exercised in their manufacture, and that the proper attention is given the skin, once their use is begun.
That cosmetics are regarded as a means of improving the skin and beautifying the complexion is well
established. That they are here to stay may be deduced from the enormous amount of newspaper and
magazine advertisement of face powders, rouges and creams, from the tremendous increase in the number
of beauty parlors, and from the ever-increasing millions spent by the public for cosmetics.
COSMETICS
• derives from the Greek kosmetikē tekhnē, meaning "technique of dress and ornament",
• from kosmētikos, "skilled in ordering or arranging"
• from kosmos, meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".
• (colloquially known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance
or odor of the human body.
• A preparation, such as powder or a skin cream, designed to beautify the body by direct application
• (FDA) defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or
functions
TIMELINE ON THE HISTORY OF COSMETICS
PERIOD IMPORTANT EVENTS
10,000 BCE Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Scented oils and creams to
clean and soften their skin ,mask body odor and also used for protection against the hot sun
and dry winds
4000 BCE Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite
(bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition.
3000 BCE Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg.
Bright colors for social class only. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead, apply
crushed mulberries as rouge and use eyebrows made of oxen hair.
1500 BCE Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white.
Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes applied to stain hair
and faces. A popular Traditional Chinese Medicines is the fungus Tremella fuciformis; used
as a beauty product by women. The fungus reportedly increases moisture retention in the
skin and prevents senile degradation of micro-blood vessels in the skin, reducing wrinkles
and smoothing fine lines
1000 BCE Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick
out of ochre clays laced with red iron
76
, Early Cos. In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on
100 AD their fingernails for polish.
300-400 AD Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are
painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding.
1200 AD As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East.
1300 AD In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites
over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet, some thought
cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a health threat.
1400 - 1500 In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as the main
AD centers of cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of
lead.
1500-1600 European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including
AD white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with
which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth." Blonde hair rises in popularity as it
is considered angelic.
1800 AD Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used deadly
mixtures of lead and copper. Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed
as vulgar and acceptable only for use by actors.
1900 A: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear as young as
possible while acting as hostesses. Beauty salons increase in popularity, though patronage of
such salons is not necessarily accepted. Because many women are loathe to admit that they
needed assistance to look young, they often entered salons through the back door.
1909 Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller
as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company .
1910s L'Oréal market was developed in the USA during the by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein,
and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée
Lauder just after.
1911 Nivea company was developed
21st centruy Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers, who have
more recently been joined online by established outlets. An increasing number of males are
gradually using cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial
features. Concealer is commonly used by self-conscious
USES OF MAKE UP/COSMETICS
1. To enhance and beautify
2. To cover -up scars and deformities that can be debilitating - helps build up the self esteem and
confidence
of an individual.
3. It is needed in certain jobs and professions mostly centered in the show business industry.
4. It is used as sun protection.
Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail
polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair
sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters
and many other types of products.
77
, GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to coloring products intended to alter the
user’s appearance.
1. decorative cosmetics
2. care cosmetics
I. DECORATIVE COSMETICS
Most cosmetics are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
1. Face Primer
- is a cosmetic base coat that is put on beneath foundation.
- Applied much like foundation; It extends makeup wear and helps to create a flawless finish.
- comes in various formulas to suit individual skin conditions and applied before foundation.
Uses: a. To reduce the appearance of pore size
b. To prolong the wear of makeup,
c. It allows for a smoother application of makeup
2. Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters.
• Lipsticks - are intended to add color and texture to the lips
• come in a wide range of colors, as well as finishes such as matte, satin and lustre.
• Lip glosses – are intended to add shine to the lips, and may also add a tint of color, scent or flavor.
• Lip balms/ chapsticks - are most often used to moisturize and protect the lips. It is applied to the
lips of the mouth to relieve chapped or dry lips, cold sores, or just to add a little shine to one's lips
for a simple, natural makeup look They often contain SPF protection.
• Lip liner - intended to fill uneven areas on the outer edges of the lips after applying lipstick
3. Concealer
- used to cover any imperfections of the skin.
- is a colour corrector used to mask pimples, dark circles, red areas, and other small blemishes
visible on the skin
- used for any extra coverage needed to cover blemishes, under eye circles, and other imperfections.
- is often thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting, more detailed
coverage.
- can also be used for contouring your face like your nose, cheekbones, and jaw line.
4. Foundation
- is used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration.
- is a flesh-toned cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform colour to the complexion,
and, sometimes, to change the natural skintone
- usually a liquid, cream, or powder, as well as most recently a light and fluffy mousse.
- provides coverage from sheer to full depending on preference.
* Foundation primer can be applied before or after foundation to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers
come in powder or liquid form to be applied before foundation as a base, while other primers come as a
spray to be applied after the foundation to help the make-up last longer.
5. Face powder
- is used to set the foundation, giving it a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
- Tinted face powders may also be worn alone as a light foundation.
6. Rouge, blush or blusher
- is cheek coloring used to bring out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more
defined.
- used to redden the cheeks or add a healthy glow to them. Generally blush comes in shades like
peaches, pinks, and reds. Rouge comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms.
78
CHEMICAL IN COSMETICS
75
, INTRODUCTION
Cosmetic (Make-up) has been around for several centuries already. Among the more notable
people to wear these beauty enhancers are the Egyptians. In fact the first known historical record of using
cosmetics to enhance beauty or parts of the face and body was in Egypt during the First Dynasty around the
years 3100 - 2907 BC. Make up eventually evolved from the Egyptian kohl to the French rouge, which was
used to make the lips red and the cheeks blush.
Today, cosmetics plays a vital role for both men and women everywhere. They are used especially
by women of practically all walks of life. Most of these preparations are harmless, organic or hypoallergenic
, provided their ingredients are whole-some and pure, that all poisonous materials are excluded, that care
is exercised in their manufacture, and that the proper attention is given the skin, once their use is begun.
That cosmetics are regarded as a means of improving the skin and beautifying the complexion is well
established. That they are here to stay may be deduced from the enormous amount of newspaper and
magazine advertisement of face powders, rouges and creams, from the tremendous increase in the number
of beauty parlors, and from the ever-increasing millions spent by the public for cosmetics.
COSMETICS
• derives from the Greek kosmetikē tekhnē, meaning "technique of dress and ornament",
• from kosmētikos, "skilled in ordering or arranging"
• from kosmos, meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".
• (colloquially known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance
or odor of the human body.
• A preparation, such as powder or a skin cream, designed to beautify the body by direct application
• (FDA) defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or
functions
TIMELINE ON THE HISTORY OF COSMETICS
PERIOD IMPORTANT EVENTS
10,000 BCE Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Scented oils and creams to
clean and soften their skin ,mask body odor and also used for protection against the hot sun
and dry winds
4000 BCE Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite
(bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition.
3000 BCE Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg.
Bright colors for social class only. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead, apply
crushed mulberries as rouge and use eyebrows made of oxen hair.
1500 BCE Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white.
Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes applied to stain hair
and faces. A popular Traditional Chinese Medicines is the fungus Tremella fuciformis; used
as a beauty product by women. The fungus reportedly increases moisture retention in the
skin and prevents senile degradation of micro-blood vessels in the skin, reducing wrinkles
and smoothing fine lines
1000 BCE Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick
out of ochre clays laced with red iron
76
, Early Cos. In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on
100 AD their fingernails for polish.
300-400 AD Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are
painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding.
1200 AD As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East.
1300 AD In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites
over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet, some thought
cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a health threat.
1400 - 1500 In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as the main
AD centers of cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of
lead.
1500-1600 European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including
AD white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with
which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth." Blonde hair rises in popularity as it
is considered angelic.
1800 AD Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used deadly
mixtures of lead and copper. Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed
as vulgar and acceptable only for use by actors.
1900 A: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear as young as
possible while acting as hostesses. Beauty salons increase in popularity, though patronage of
such salons is not necessarily accepted. Because many women are loathe to admit that they
needed assistance to look young, they often entered salons through the back door.
1909 Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller
as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company .
1910s L'Oréal market was developed in the USA during the by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein,
and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée
Lauder just after.
1911 Nivea company was developed
21st centruy Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers, who have
more recently been joined online by established outlets. An increasing number of males are
gradually using cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial
features. Concealer is commonly used by self-conscious
USES OF MAKE UP/COSMETICS
1. To enhance and beautify
2. To cover -up scars and deformities that can be debilitating - helps build up the self esteem and
confidence
of an individual.
3. It is needed in certain jobs and professions mostly centered in the show business industry.
4. It is used as sun protection.
Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail
polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair
sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters
and many other types of products.
77
, GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to coloring products intended to alter the
user’s appearance.
1. decorative cosmetics
2. care cosmetics
I. DECORATIVE COSMETICS
Most cosmetics are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
1. Face Primer
- is a cosmetic base coat that is put on beneath foundation.
- Applied much like foundation; It extends makeup wear and helps to create a flawless finish.
- comes in various formulas to suit individual skin conditions and applied before foundation.
Uses: a. To reduce the appearance of pore size
b. To prolong the wear of makeup,
c. It allows for a smoother application of makeup
2. Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters.
• Lipsticks - are intended to add color and texture to the lips
• come in a wide range of colors, as well as finishes such as matte, satin and lustre.
• Lip glosses – are intended to add shine to the lips, and may also add a tint of color, scent or flavor.
• Lip balms/ chapsticks - are most often used to moisturize and protect the lips. It is applied to the
lips of the mouth to relieve chapped or dry lips, cold sores, or just to add a little shine to one's lips
for a simple, natural makeup look They often contain SPF protection.
• Lip liner - intended to fill uneven areas on the outer edges of the lips after applying lipstick
3. Concealer
- used to cover any imperfections of the skin.
- is a colour corrector used to mask pimples, dark circles, red areas, and other small blemishes
visible on the skin
- used for any extra coverage needed to cover blemishes, under eye circles, and other imperfections.
- is often thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting, more detailed
coverage.
- can also be used for contouring your face like your nose, cheekbones, and jaw line.
4. Foundation
- is used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration.
- is a flesh-toned cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform colour to the complexion,
and, sometimes, to change the natural skintone
- usually a liquid, cream, or powder, as well as most recently a light and fluffy mousse.
- provides coverage from sheer to full depending on preference.
* Foundation primer can be applied before or after foundation to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers
come in powder or liquid form to be applied before foundation as a base, while other primers come as a
spray to be applied after the foundation to help the make-up last longer.
5. Face powder
- is used to set the foundation, giving it a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
- Tinted face powders may also be worn alone as a light foundation.
6. Rouge, blush or blusher
- is cheek coloring used to bring out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more
defined.
- used to redden the cheeks or add a healthy glow to them. Generally blush comes in shades like
peaches, pinks, and reds. Rouge comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms.
78
