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coast
land extending inland as far as marine influence is seen
offshore
extends from breakers to edge of continental shelf
beach
shore and nearshore; very active (where waves break)
berm
dry area at the foot of coastal cliff (where the sand is and you put your towel)
Berm floods when....
-very high tide
-tsunami
-storm swells/ breakers
wave- cut platform
flat eroded bedrock at beach, by wave energy
notch
cave cut into the sea cliff by wave energy
near shore
where breakers occur
coastline
line that separates beach from land
sources of sand to the beach
- continental erosion
- rivers dumping sediment into the sea
summertime beach
-wave energy is low
-sandy beach
-wide berm
wintertime beach
-wave energy is high
-rocky beach
-narrow berm
drift
net movement of sand grains (longshore drift)
longshore current
,movement of water in surf zone, parallel to the coast
why does longshore current move water parallel to the coast
-waves come at an angel
-depends on where waves first start breaking
-due to the winds
where does the longshore current move in Southern California
N-S
how does sand get moved
-rivers supply sediment
-longshore currents carry sands
-dump into submarine canyon
what are the 2 types of coasts
depositional coast and erosional coast
depositional coast
-not active
-flat coast
-subsidence (east/south coast)
-deposit sediment
-submerging coast (sinking)
-deltas, barrier islands
erosional coast
-tectonic uplift (west coast)
-active
-plate boundary
-ex. sunset cliffs
-cliffs
-headlands, sea caves, arches, stacks
-emergent coast (rising)
-marine terraces
how are headlands, sea caves, arches, and stacks made?
the waves eroding them
pacific coast
-erosional
-ocean does not migrate inland
Atlantic coast
-depositional
-oceans migrate inland a lot
gulf coast
-below sea level
-ocean would migrate the farthest inland
why has the global sea level changed
-climate change
-tectonics
climate change
, -global warming
-ice ages
-related to convention because warm water rises, cold water sinks
global warming
- sea level rises (thermal expansion)
ice ages
sea level falls (thermal contraction)
tectonics: mid- ocean ridges:
-fast spreading rates at ridges... sea level rises
-slow spreading rates at ridges... sea level falls
promitory
-piece of land that sticks out near a beach
-very high erosion
la jolla and santa Monica is on a....
terrace
terrace
-lifted land
wave cut platforms is...
the beach
pollution
substances that are harmful to marine environment, introduces by humans
top 4 pollutants
-petroleum
-sewage
-heavy metals
-solid waste
crude oil
biodegradable
refined oil
non biodegradable
what is the biggest culprit of petroleum pollution
consumption (72%)
petroleum formation
-organic rich mud at the bottom of the ocean
-ancient marine microscopic plankton/ algae die and go to the bottom
-covered by sand
-covered by shale cap rock
-covered by lime stone
where are most oil reserves?
in the shelf, mainly in the gulf
largest oil spill
BP, 2010 (210 million gallons)
sewage pollution:
treated and untreated enter the oceans every day
heavy metals pollution: