Summary Basic Textiles 3 (Weaving and Knitting)

Basic Textiles 1.3
Weaving
Sequence color yarns

Weave 2/2 twill

x
x



Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4

3/3 Basket weave

x x x
x x x
x x x
x x x
x x x
x x x



Wicking
Some parts are left open → wicking → absorption of dirt.
Cross section
of a
- When a yarn is able to float → relaxed yarn.
microfiber
- The less interlacing points, the more wicking
……...possibility, the more absorption.
- The less interlacing points, the weaker the fabric.
- You can add a very long float (loop) for extra
absorption, this goes on top of the warp/weft yarns
- Pile yarn = loop velvet/velvetees

3 pick terry towel → slack tension weaving: final beat-up, 2 ground yarns
remain on the same tension. Last beat up, warp yarn is loose because of the
slack beat up. This is how you get loops.
x


x

p1 g1 p2 g2




1

,2 yarn system
Limitations of 2 yarn systems:
• Structural
• Properties
• Design

Will cover:
• 3, 4 & 5 yarn systems
• Colored weave construction
• Carpet-weaving

3 yarn system
Extra warp systems:
Warp:
• Loop fabrics
• Velvets & Plush (Warp pile fabrics)
• Warp-backed fabrics
Weft:
• Velveteen & Corduroy (Weft pile fabrics)
• Chenille
• Weft-backed fabrics


Reader 7 p.101-107
Woven terry = warp pile fabric. The bottom beam provides the ground warp.
Top beam provides the pile warp. Pile yarns form loops.




- The reed will not move into beat-up position until a number of picks
have been inserted. Result: long warp yarn, without any weft yarns.
- The reed moves forward to beat-up position, beating up picks and
pushing the warp yarns → terry loops.




2

, 3 pick terry diagram
- 3 weft yarns are inserted before beat-up
- 3rd weft is used for beat-up




Multiple height terry diagram 3 Pick Terry Fabric (greige)
→ poor
uniformity
of loop
heights




3 Pick Terry Fabric (finished)
Brushing, dyeing, finishing operations →
loops are standing up, producing a
more uniform and dense fabric surface




4/4 Twill
X x x x
x X X X
x X X X
x X X X
x X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X x




3