Exam Questions and CORRECT Answers
terminology for structure of a wave - CORRECT ANSWER - wave period, wave
frequency, crest, trough, wavelength amplitude, wave height
How is wave period use to classify waves (types) - CORRECT ANSWER - Capillary
Chop
Swell
Tsunami
Tide
What types of waves are seismic, lunar, or wind created - CORRECT ANSWER - wind -
capillary, chop, swell
lunar - tide
seismic - tsunami
What controls wave size - CORRECT ANSWER - wind speed, length of time that wind
blows, distance over which wind and water interact
What happens when two waves run into each other - CORRECT ANSWER - Either
constructive wave interference or destructive wave interference. Constructive interference
amplifies the effect and combines the waves. Destructive interference cancels out the effect and
makes the waves smaller.
What are deep water waves versus shallow water waves - CORRECT ANSWER - Deep
water waves are when the depth > 1/2 wavelength. Shallow water waves are when the depth is
<1/20 wavelength.
How do deep water versus shallow water waves move - CORRECT ANSWER - deep
water waves move very fast and shallow water waves move very slow
, What is a tsunami - CORRECT ANSWER - a seismic sea wave (large, caused by
earthquakes or volcanoes under the ocean)
What is storm surge and when does it happen - CORRECT ANSWER - Storm surge is an
abnormal water level rise generated by a storm over and above the predicted astronomical tide. It
occurs when storm winds blow water on shore
What causes tides - CORRECT ANSWER - the moons gravitational pull (2/3 moon) (1/3
sun)
What are the daily tidal patterns? What is Miami? - CORRECT ANSWER - Diurnal - one
high and one low per day
Semidiurnal - two highs and two lows per day (Miami)
Mixed semidiurnal - one high high, one low low, one medium high, and one medium low per day
How long is the tidal day? Why? - CORRECT ANSWER - 24hrs and 50 minutes. That is
how long it takes for the moon to rotate around earth.
What is a spring tide and what celestial arrangement does it occur under - CORRECT
ANSWER - Spring tides are large tides that happen when the earth, sun, and moon are in
alignment with one another. The moon is either a new moon or a full moon. The orbit of the
moon is more elliptical at that time making the gravitational pull a bit stronger. They happen
twice a month.
What is a neap tide and what celestial arrangement does it occur under - CORRECT
ANSWER - Neap tides are small tides that occur when the earth and sun are aligned, but
the moon is at a 90 degree angle to that alignment. The moon is either a first quarter or third
quarter moon. The orbit is more circular at that time which means the gravitational pull is less
strong. They happen twice a month.
What are king tides and under what arrangement do they occur - CORRECT ANSWER -
King tides are when the new/full moon, earth, and sun all line up (just like spring tides),