PSI Cosmetology Theory Exam
Latest 2024 Graded A+
Soft Water/ Rain water - -Best for shampooing and allows shampoo to lather
freely
-Hard Water - -Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather
-Purified water/Deionized water - -Main ingredient in shampoo
-Surfactant - -has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL
-Hydrophilic Head - -Attracted to water
-Lipophilic Tail - -Attracted to dirts and oils
-Acid Balanced Shampoo - -pH of 4.5-5.5
-Jheri Redding - -first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s
-Clarifying Shampoo - -acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand
-Humectants - -Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture
-Instant conditioners - -remain on the hair 1-5 minutes
-Protein Conditoners - -brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to
temporarily improve porosity and increase elasticity
-Infraed Lamps - -may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5
minutes
-High Frequency Unit - -used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also
never should be used with tonics that contain alcohol
-Base Control - -position of the rod in relation to its base section
-croquignole perm wrap - -wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with
the ends
-Spiral Perm Wrap - -Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical
-Concave Rods - -most common and have a smaller center circumference
, -Straight Rods - -uniform circumference
-Alkaline Permanent - -softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle.
Developed in 1941
-Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) - -main ingredient or reducing agent in
alkaline perms
-Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) - -process at room temp
-Acid Perms - -Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
-Exothermic perms - -reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide
-Endothermic Perms - -activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms
are endothermic
-Disulfide Bonds - -if too many are broken the hair will become over
processed and have a weak curl
-What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer - -Hydrogen Peroxide
-Do not shampoo hair - -48 hours after a perm
-Cuticle - -outer most layer of the hair
-Cortex - -middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place
-Melanin - -Natural pigment located in the cortex
-Peptide Bonds - -called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains.
Should not be broken.
-What are the three side bonds? - -Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross
-Disulfide Bonds - -strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the
hair
-Salt bonds - -Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes
in pH
-Hydrogen Bonds - -broken by water or heat
EX: Wet Set
-Hair Texture - -Diameter of a single strand
Latest 2024 Graded A+
Soft Water/ Rain water - -Best for shampooing and allows shampoo to lather
freely
-Hard Water - -Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather
-Purified water/Deionized water - -Main ingredient in shampoo
-Surfactant - -has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL
-Hydrophilic Head - -Attracted to water
-Lipophilic Tail - -Attracted to dirts and oils
-Acid Balanced Shampoo - -pH of 4.5-5.5
-Jheri Redding - -first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s
-Clarifying Shampoo - -acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand
-Humectants - -Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture
-Instant conditioners - -remain on the hair 1-5 minutes
-Protein Conditoners - -brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to
temporarily improve porosity and increase elasticity
-Infraed Lamps - -may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5
minutes
-High Frequency Unit - -used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also
never should be used with tonics that contain alcohol
-Base Control - -position of the rod in relation to its base section
-croquignole perm wrap - -wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with
the ends
-Spiral Perm Wrap - -Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical
-Concave Rods - -most common and have a smaller center circumference
, -Straight Rods - -uniform circumference
-Alkaline Permanent - -softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle.
Developed in 1941
-Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) - -main ingredient or reducing agent in
alkaline perms
-Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) - -process at room temp
-Acid Perms - -Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
-Exothermic perms - -reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide
-Endothermic Perms - -activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms
are endothermic
-Disulfide Bonds - -if too many are broken the hair will become over
processed and have a weak curl
-What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer - -Hydrogen Peroxide
-Do not shampoo hair - -48 hours after a perm
-Cuticle - -outer most layer of the hair
-Cortex - -middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place
-Melanin - -Natural pigment located in the cortex
-Peptide Bonds - -called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains.
Should not be broken.
-What are the three side bonds? - -Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross
-Disulfide Bonds - -strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the
hair
-Salt bonds - -Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes
in pH
-Hydrogen Bonds - -broken by water or heat
EX: Wet Set
-Hair Texture - -Diameter of a single strand
