Lecture 4 – 1990’s
Minimalism
Realism
Grunge (indie metal)
Edgy (avant-gardiste)
Heroin Chic
= Looking inwards, introverted and basic feeling of behaving and appearance
Really different atmosphere from 80’s
Young professionals’ mind :
- reflecting on society and underground influences
- opposed to super perfect (body, hair, suit, cloth) → they thought it was fake and didn’t want that
anymore
The introduction of the term “edgy”
- rawness, edge of appropriateness, nervous
- ex: Kate Moss posing with bare breast for a magazine at the age of 15. (styled by Ward)
- show realness et question appropriateness
From recession, new things emerge. Since 90’s Paris is no longer the major capital of Fashion.
Melanie Ward was the instigator.
Photographers did a lot of bibliographic work, they wanted to show the realness of the decade,
they did a lot of unpaid work for I-D for example and then ended up being part of the fashion elite.
Melanie Ward
→ stylist
→ helped reinvent the London street fashion
→ fashion editor for Harper's Bazaar
→ clean and simple way of posing, wearing cloth
M. Ward worked for
- Helmut Lang
- Calvin Klein (advertising campaign, extremely controversial, with K.Moss again) 1993
= ground breaking & controversial (bc of lack of clothing and sexual suggestiveness)
, still room for experimentation
played around with
- sleeve length
- seams
but still
- clean
- simple
- well-made
Belgian designers (Antwerp 6)
Maison Margiela
Minimalism
Realism
Grunge (indie metal)
Edgy (avant-gardiste)
Heroin Chic
= Looking inwards, introverted and basic feeling of behaving and appearance
Really different atmosphere from 80’s
Young professionals’ mind :
- reflecting on society and underground influences
- opposed to super perfect (body, hair, suit, cloth) → they thought it was fake and didn’t want that
anymore
The introduction of the term “edgy”
- rawness, edge of appropriateness, nervous
- ex: Kate Moss posing with bare breast for a magazine at the age of 15. (styled by Ward)
- show realness et question appropriateness
From recession, new things emerge. Since 90’s Paris is no longer the major capital of Fashion.
Melanie Ward was the instigator.
Photographers did a lot of bibliographic work, they wanted to show the realness of the decade,
they did a lot of unpaid work for I-D for example and then ended up being part of the fashion elite.
Melanie Ward
→ stylist
→ helped reinvent the London street fashion
→ fashion editor for Harper's Bazaar
→ clean and simple way of posing, wearing cloth
M. Ward worked for
- Helmut Lang
- Calvin Klein (advertising campaign, extremely controversial, with K.Moss again) 1993
= ground breaking & controversial (bc of lack of clothing and sexual suggestiveness)
, still room for experimentation
played around with
- sleeve length
- seams
but still
- clean
- simple
- well-made
Belgian designers (Antwerp 6)
Maison Margiela
