Lecture 7 – THE RISE AND INFLUENCE OF JAPANESE DESIGNERS
Part 1 : Issey Miyake
Unity of 3 Japanese designers : Issey Miyake, Yoshi Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo
They’re actually 3 different individuals with different signatures styles.
Miyake was the first one to arrive in Paris.
They question all the notions, conventions, what’s right or wrong.
They go against JPG, Armani, punk current…
Difference in material, drape, silhouette, … → that’s what made them stand out and why
they were recognised
« If there are, say, ten great designers in the world right now, then at least three of them
are Japanese. »
- Time magazine, 1983
All sorts of movements creating chaos.
Revolutionaries
- whose aim is to modify the shape and form of clothing itself
No more static idea of what fashion was. Vibrant energy to move and be different.
Before them, no other non-western people had succeeded in fashion in Paris.
Pleats → Miyake
Ripped fabrics, garment falling apart → Yamamoto
movement, fluidity → CDG
, - he studied design in Tokyo (graduated in 1965)
- his talent wasn’t recognised in Japan that’s why he came to Paris, to the Chambre
Syndicale de la Mode de Paris
- influenced by fine art, sculpture, (Giacometti, Brancusi, Balenciaga, Vionnet)
- he admired Vionnet for her understanding of the kimono (beginning of 20th)
-he discards traditional techniques
- known for his innovation, every collection has a new way of thinking – in line with what he
does, he’s against words like “haute couture”
- he works from the same principles
- simplistic structures of cloth around the body
- worked for Guy Laroche, Hubert Givenchy, Geoffrey Beene (in NY)
- Miyake opens his Miyake Design studio back in Japan and shows it in NY
Miyake arrived to Paris to show his collection → 1973
Openend his boutique in Paris → 1975
Pioneered this new aesthetics
- philosophical way of looking at fashion
- his clothing inhabit a sort of sculptural quality → suggest freedom?
- playing with space between the wearer and the cloth – the wearer is not restricted by
what he’s wearing
Part 1 : Issey Miyake
Unity of 3 Japanese designers : Issey Miyake, Yoshi Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo
They’re actually 3 different individuals with different signatures styles.
Miyake was the first one to arrive in Paris.
They question all the notions, conventions, what’s right or wrong.
They go against JPG, Armani, punk current…
Difference in material, drape, silhouette, … → that’s what made them stand out and why
they were recognised
« If there are, say, ten great designers in the world right now, then at least three of them
are Japanese. »
- Time magazine, 1983
All sorts of movements creating chaos.
Revolutionaries
- whose aim is to modify the shape and form of clothing itself
No more static idea of what fashion was. Vibrant energy to move and be different.
Before them, no other non-western people had succeeded in fashion in Paris.
Pleats → Miyake
Ripped fabrics, garment falling apart → Yamamoto
movement, fluidity → CDG
, - he studied design in Tokyo (graduated in 1965)
- his talent wasn’t recognised in Japan that’s why he came to Paris, to the Chambre
Syndicale de la Mode de Paris
- influenced by fine art, sculpture, (Giacometti, Brancusi, Balenciaga, Vionnet)
- he admired Vionnet for her understanding of the kimono (beginning of 20th)
-he discards traditional techniques
- known for his innovation, every collection has a new way of thinking – in line with what he
does, he’s against words like “haute couture”
- he works from the same principles
- simplistic structures of cloth around the body
- worked for Guy Laroche, Hubert Givenchy, Geoffrey Beene (in NY)
- Miyake opens his Miyake Design studio back in Japan and shows it in NY
Miyake arrived to Paris to show his collection → 1973
Openend his boutique in Paris → 1975
Pioneered this new aesthetics
- philosophical way of looking at fashion
- his clothing inhabit a sort of sculptural quality → suggest freedom?
- playing with space between the wearer and the cloth – the wearer is not restricted by
what he’s wearing
