Blue is the New Black –
Summary
Chapter 6 – Branding
Branding is put on garments to establish an identi ty for the customer to come back to.
In which stages of development is branding considered?
- During sketching/development matrix phase: considering branding/trim direction of
the line, meeting with trim suppliers for new developments to inspire designer
- Proto review: key stage, first time designer/developer see garments/trims together
Trims – buttons, zips, patches, threads or other items added to the garment
Two types of branding
- Generic – items of branding that remain the same each season. Colour may change.
- Season-specific – influenced by mood of concept, will change with every collection.
Developing the branding
The Design Brief
- Designer and developer meet with trim company: ideas on shapes/colours discussed
- Design brief formed, trim company makes prototype
- For non-woven trims (buttons, snaps, zips), a mould needs to be created
- Leather patches or woven labels: temporary moulds/plates to keep costs down
Approval Sample
- Artwork approved sample made and sent to designer
- Designer ALWAYS approves before sample or production quantity/run can be made
- Article code given to trim, used in tech pack or proto review
Trim Guide
- Made for factories by development team
- Often an Excel sheet: picture of trim, code, price per item
Calling Off Trims
- A factory contacts the trim company and requests the trim order to be sent to them
- E.g. button made by factory, held in warehouse waiting for ‘call off’ requests
- Stock at trim company is crucial during production process, no lead-time
Timescales
- Often 3-8 weeks to develop/produce: needs to be factored into planning
- Initial prototype: buttons 3-4 (mould), woven labels 2-3, leather patches 3-4
- Sampling: 3-4 weeks, depending on complexity and quantity
- Production: 4-5 weeks, depending on complexity and quantity
, Trim Testing
- By third party testing facility or trim company, takes 2-3 weeks
- Between salesman and production stages, costed into final trim price
Transportation – most cost-effective is by sea/road, in urgent cases shipment goes by air
Variables – why manufacturing times may differ
- Complexity of style, e.g. added beads
- Size of item, unusual size needs specific mould/screen
- Base material: unusual material to be tested and approved for all end-markets
- Location of manufacture
Prints and Embroideries
- Artworks made at same time fabrics and colours are selected/booked
- Good example of season-specific branding
- Sent with tech packs for strike-offs at proto review: example print on available fabric
Branding the Samples
- Adding trims, labels, prints and embroideries to styles you are developing
- Generic labels at tech pack creation, season-specific at proto review stage
- Often branding information pack about exact placement of (generic) labels
Label Requirements
- Country of Origin sometimes on size label, depending on import regulations
- RN/CA Numbers for import purposes USA/CA, used to identify that the company is
registered to manufacture a textile or wool product, unique code
- Care Instructions permanent, often additional label or hangtag for fabric or garment
specific care instructions
- Special Hangtags used to highlight a feature of the garment, e.g. special finish
- Manufacturer Details or ‘time label’, used to identify month & facility of production
- Exceptions: not all product groups need every label, e.g. bags and belts
Internal Garment Labels
Wash Care Labels – they generally contain…
- Company name
- Fibre content
- Care symbols for US and EU
- Care instructions in writing
- Contact number (in case of customer claim)
- Company Address
- RN and CA codes
Wash Care Label Production
- If the same quality label is necessary for all production, a brand nominates a
company specializing in wash care labels. Each factory will order from them.
- Fabric can vary in cost and quality: ideally, soft polyester satin
Summary
Chapter 6 – Branding
Branding is put on garments to establish an identi ty for the customer to come back to.
In which stages of development is branding considered?
- During sketching/development matrix phase: considering branding/trim direction of
the line, meeting with trim suppliers for new developments to inspire designer
- Proto review: key stage, first time designer/developer see garments/trims together
Trims – buttons, zips, patches, threads or other items added to the garment
Two types of branding
- Generic – items of branding that remain the same each season. Colour may change.
- Season-specific – influenced by mood of concept, will change with every collection.
Developing the branding
The Design Brief
- Designer and developer meet with trim company: ideas on shapes/colours discussed
- Design brief formed, trim company makes prototype
- For non-woven trims (buttons, snaps, zips), a mould needs to be created
- Leather patches or woven labels: temporary moulds/plates to keep costs down
Approval Sample
- Artwork approved sample made and sent to designer
- Designer ALWAYS approves before sample or production quantity/run can be made
- Article code given to trim, used in tech pack or proto review
Trim Guide
- Made for factories by development team
- Often an Excel sheet: picture of trim, code, price per item
Calling Off Trims
- A factory contacts the trim company and requests the trim order to be sent to them
- E.g. button made by factory, held in warehouse waiting for ‘call off’ requests
- Stock at trim company is crucial during production process, no lead-time
Timescales
- Often 3-8 weeks to develop/produce: needs to be factored into planning
- Initial prototype: buttons 3-4 (mould), woven labels 2-3, leather patches 3-4
- Sampling: 3-4 weeks, depending on complexity and quantity
- Production: 4-5 weeks, depending on complexity and quantity
, Trim Testing
- By third party testing facility or trim company, takes 2-3 weeks
- Between salesman and production stages, costed into final trim price
Transportation – most cost-effective is by sea/road, in urgent cases shipment goes by air
Variables – why manufacturing times may differ
- Complexity of style, e.g. added beads
- Size of item, unusual size needs specific mould/screen
- Base material: unusual material to be tested and approved for all end-markets
- Location of manufacture
Prints and Embroideries
- Artworks made at same time fabrics and colours are selected/booked
- Good example of season-specific branding
- Sent with tech packs for strike-offs at proto review: example print on available fabric
Branding the Samples
- Adding trims, labels, prints and embroideries to styles you are developing
- Generic labels at tech pack creation, season-specific at proto review stage
- Often branding information pack about exact placement of (generic) labels
Label Requirements
- Country of Origin sometimes on size label, depending on import regulations
- RN/CA Numbers for import purposes USA/CA, used to identify that the company is
registered to manufacture a textile or wool product, unique code
- Care Instructions permanent, often additional label or hangtag for fabric or garment
specific care instructions
- Special Hangtags used to highlight a feature of the garment, e.g. special finish
- Manufacturer Details or ‘time label’, used to identify month & facility of production
- Exceptions: not all product groups need every label, e.g. bags and belts
Internal Garment Labels
Wash Care Labels – they generally contain…
- Company name
- Fibre content
- Care symbols for US and EU
- Care instructions in writing
- Contact number (in case of customer claim)
- Company Address
- RN and CA codes
Wash Care Label Production
- If the same quality label is necessary for all production, a brand nominates a
company specializing in wash care labels. Each factory will order from them.
- Fabric can vary in cost and quality: ideally, soft polyester satin
