Cosmetology State Board Practice Test (146 questions and answers)

Corrugations Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries. Furrows Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness. Leuconchia White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail Onychorrhexis Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals. Hang Nails Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle Onychomycosis Unguium Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious Onychocryptosis Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes. Verruca Warts caused by infectious virus Onycholysis lifting of the nail without shedding 5 Basic Nail Shapes squoval, round, oval, pointed, square Toner used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring Conditioning filler protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes Color filler used to replace the missing primary colors Oxidative Demi- permenant and permenant color Non-oxidative color temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent. Double process blonde decolorizing and toning What affects lightener working time? Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat Lift lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair Deposit means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift developer oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten Semi-permanent color non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo. Demi-permanent color oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone Permanent color lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out Primary colors Red, Blue, Yellow Brown unequal combo of primary color Black Equal parts of primary colors Warm tones red, orange, yellow Cool tones blue, green, violet Neutral tones perfect combo of both cool and warm tones Eumelanin Brown to black pigments Pheomelanin Red to yellow pigments Coarse texture largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected medium texture has a balance of melanin, typically no problems Fine texture smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage Alkaline Wave AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT Acid Wave AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing Endothermic required added heat source Exothermic self heating Croguiqnole Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method" Spiral hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod On base placement hair is held 45* forward 1/2 off base placement hair is held 90* straight up Off base placement hair is held 45* down End paper techniques double flat, bookend, cushion wrap Lanthionization hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed Sodium relaxers are not compatible with : Thio relaxers Elasticity ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20% Melanin color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin Hair layers medulla, cuticle, and cortex Medulla center core of hair, does nothing Cuticle 7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair Cortex has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight, elasticity, strength, all chemical changes