Floor finishes
1. Insitu floor finishes : mixed on site, laid in a fluid state and allowed to set and dry to
form a joint less surface
Examples
- Mastic asphalt
- Pitch mastic
- Granolithic
- Magnesium ox-chloride
2. Applied floor finishes: finishes supplied in tile or sheet form and are laid onto asuitably
prepared base
Examples
- Flexible PVC tiles and sheet
- Thermoplastic tiles
- Rubber tiles and sheet
- Carpet
- Linoleum
- Cark tiles sand and carpet
- Quarry tiles
- Plain clay floor tiles
3. Timber floor finish: boards, sheets and block of timber attached to a suitable structural
frame or base
Examples
- Timber boards
- Timber strips
- Timber sheet
- Wood blocks
- Parquet
, Ref: chudley vol I page 174
Procedure of laying floor tiles
Step 1: Prepare the Surface
Make sure your surfaces are clean, smooth, and dry for best results. Take time to repair, patch,
and level any damaged or uneven areas. Double check to make sure the surface is structurally
sound and the area free of wax, soap scum, and grease.
Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile application, and check the
doorjambs to make sure tile has clearance when installed beneath. Identifying these potential
complications in advance will help your installation run smoothly.
Step 2: Begin Your Layout
For an efficient layout, start by marking the center point of each of the walls in the rooms. Next,
snap chalk lines between the centers points of opposite walls to pinpoint the center of the room.
Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection creates perfect squares.
Starting at the center point, lay a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, using
tile spacers as you go to for even, uniform joints. Once you reach the walls, you'll need to cut
tiles for a proper fit. If the cuts needed are smaller than half of a tile, you can adjust the center
line by snapping a new line a half-tile size closer to the wall. If necessary, repeat this step along
the intersecting center line for a precise design.
To make a large room more manageable, divide each section into smaller 2' x 3' grids by
snapping additional lines parallel to the centerlines.
Step 3: Apply the Adhesive
, As a general rule of thumb, be mindful to mix only enough of the adhesive to be used within 30
minutes. Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the adhesive package, spread a
1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area without covering the guidelines.
After doing so, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive
into standing ridges. When you remove the excess adhesive, you leave behind a uniform, ridged
setting bed for your tile. As another rule of thumb, do not spread a larger area of your adhesive
than can be set in 15 minutes.
Stick to the script and facilitate your tile installation with the perfect adhesive application.
Step 4: Cut Tile as Needed
Start by marking carefully measured cuts-to-be with a pencil or felt-tip pen on the tile surface.
You can use a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts. Make masterful curved
cuts with a nipper, chipping away small pieces for best results.
For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to handle the task. After your
cuts are made, smooth out any sharp edges with a carborundum stone to give a soft finish to your
tile.
Step 5: Set Your Tile
Now that you've primed the surface, created the layout, applied the adhesive, and cut the tile, you
are fully prepared for the actual installation of your tile.
Begin by installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before
moving to the next. Within each grid, it will help to start with the first tile in the corner and work
outward.
Using a slight twisting motion, set tiles one at a time and avoid sliding them into place. Be sure
to either insert spacers as each tile is set or leave equal joints between tiles. Save the perimeter
tiles in each grid for last, leaving a ¼†gap between the tile and wall.