ACTUAL Exam Questions and CORRECT
Answers
A storm blows over the open ocean. Which factor does
not influence the eventual amplitude of the waves the storm generates?
A) duration of wind
B) water depth
C) the distance over which wind blows (fetch)
D) wind speed - CORRECT ANSWER - B) water depth
What do wave orbitals represent in a sketch of a wave? - CORRECT ANSWER - the
movement of individual water particles over one wave period
The speed at which individual crests travel is called the - CORRECT ANSWER - celerity
The speed of a shallow water wave increases with the - CORRECT ANSWER - water
depth
As a wave begins to feel the bottom near a shoreline, its wave height - CORRECT
ANSWER - increases and wavelength decreases
A tsunami may result from - CORRECT ANSWER - tectonic activity on the seafloor
The speed of a wave is equal to - CORRECT ANSWER - wavelength divided by period
The most important restoring force for larger ocean wind waves is - CORRECT
ANSWER - gravity
, Wave dispersion is caused by - CORRECT ANSWER - waves of different wavelengths
moving at different speeds
Wave refraction tends to concentrate the energy of waves - CORRECT ANSWER - on
headlands that extend out into the water
internal waves typically have heights that are far greater than surface waves because -
CORRECT ANSWER - the density difference across a pycnocline is much smaller than
the density difference between air and water
True or False. Most tsunamis are shallow water waves - CORRECT ANSWER - True
Which side of the barrier island contains the oldest peat deposits? - CORRECT
ANSWER - the ocean side
What is the current rate of global sea level rise? - CORRECT ANSWER - 2-3mm per year
Deltas occur where the rate of sediment deposition from rivers discharging into the ocean
_______ the rate of sea level rise - CORRECT ANSWER - is greater than
Deltas with smooth triangular shapes (e.g., the Nile) are dominated by _______ and deltas with a
branching "bird's foot" structure (e.g., the Mississippi) are dominated by ______. - CORRECT
ANSWER - waves; river deposition
A river plume is a formed in a ___________ estuary when river flow is very _______ -
CORRECT ANSWER - salt wedge; high
Fjords are a type of estuary that are extremely ________ and have been formed _________. -
CORRECT ANSWER - deep; in glacial valleys that flooded after ice retreated