Mode en Design 1.
Mode & Identiteit, Taal en Kunst.
SAMENVATTING
Auteur
Christophe Van Liedekerke
1
,Inhoud
Inhoud
2. Inleiding tot de modegeschiedenis........................................................................................................ 6
2.1. Begrippen....................................................................................................................................... 6
2.2. Van prehistorie tot Industriële revolutie.......................................................................................... 6
Kleding ontstaat in de prehistorie.........................................................................................6
Dierenhuiden....................................................................................................................... 6
Gebruikt als bescherming, rituele functie of esthetische redenen........................................6
Kleding evolueert verschillend op elk continent....................................................................6
Vilt: samenklitten van wolvezels oiv van warmte, vocht, agent (zweet/zeep), wrijving.........6
Vlasteelt: vanaf 8000 vC......................................................................................................6
Wolteelt: vanaf 6000 vC.......................................................................................................6
Stepperoute: eerste textielroute vanaf 11000 vC.................................................................6
Zijderoute: China 114 vC.....................................................................................................6
Niet altijd fysieke overblijfsel van textiel/kleding...................................................................6
Gebaseerd op restanten in graven, muurschilderingen of beeldjes......................................6
Men kon verschillende ontwikkelingen waarnemen op zelfde momenten in geschiedenis op
compleet verschillende continenten.....................................................................................6
Egypte, Grieken/Romeinen, Azië, Europa............................................................................6
Eerste naden ontstaan in de prehistorie...............................................................................6
Modegeschiedenis West-Europa.........................................................................................6
1. Griekse oudheid & WRR (tot 476 nC)..............................................................................6
2. Byzantium / ORR............................................................................................................. 6
3. Vroege middeleeuwen (400-1100 nc)..............................................................................6
Verovering RR -> invloeden klederdracht............................................................................6
Import zijde Byzantium/Midden-Oosten...............................................................................6
Weinig evolutie.................................................................................................................... 6
Decoratie met borduurwerk..................................................................................................6
4. Late middeleeuwen (1100-1400 nC)................................................................................6
Vanaf 1300: ontwikkelingen (syllabus).................................................................................6
+1350: ontstaan van Westerse mode..................................................................................6
Snelle ontwikkeling van kleding...........................................................................................6
Vanaf 1350: taillering...........................................................................................................6
Mode trend kan 10-30 jaar duren.........................................................................................6
Eerste weefgetouwen in prehistorie.....................................................................................6
Neolithicum (11000-3000 vC)..............................................................................................6
China (400 vC), Syrië (256 vC): trekweefgetouw.................................................................6
2
, Handweefgetouw (1200-1300).............................................................................................6
5. Renaissance (1400-1650 nC)..........................................................................................7
Spaanse hof bepaalt mode in Nederlanden.........................................................................7
Opkomst burgerij: kapitaalkrachtige handelaars..................................................................7
6. Verlichting: Barok & Rococo (1650-1760)........................................................................7
Franse hof dicteert mode.....................................................................................................7
Franse Revolutie..................................................................................................................7
Napoleon: simpeler maar toch nog “ontoegankelijk”............................................................7
7. Industriële Revolutie (18e -19e eeuw)...............................................................................7
1733: ° shuttle loom.............................................................................................................7
1785: ° power loom.............................................................................................................. 7
1845: semiautomatische weefmachine................................................................................7
→ ° fabrieken....................................................................................................................... 7
1804: jacquard weefgetouw.................................................................................................7
→ tekeningen + kleurverschillen..........................................................................................7
1940: shuttle-loze weefgetouwen.........................................................................................7
Industrialisatie = meer + sneller textiel produceren..............................................................7
→ ook toegankelijker........................................................................................................... 7
1755: patent voor voorloper van naaimachine.....................................................................7
= onpraktisch!...................................................................................................................... 7
1790: kettingsteekmachine..................................................................................................7
→ Werkt niet goed............................................................................................................... 7
1814: eerste naaimachine voor kleding................................................................................7
1829: eerste bruikbare naaimachine....................................................................................7
→ 1830: eerste kledingfabriek Thimonnier...........................................................................7
1844: ° lock stitch machine (John Fisher) = tweedraadsmachine.........................................7
→ patent fout ingediend!......................................................................................................7
1851: Singer patenteert wel juist..........................................................................................7
→ moet royalties betalen.....................................................................................................7
→ leasing machines.............................................................................................................7
1850-1861: machine verbetert door Wheeler & Wilson........................................................7
Naaimachine oorlog.............................................................................................................7
→ Singer, Howe, Wheeler & Wilson, Grover & Baker gooien patent samen........................7
1850: eerste knoopsgat machine.........................................................................................7
1860: naaimachine standaard in middenklasse...................................................................7
→ tijdswinst.......................................................................................................................... 7
→ eerste naaimagazines (zie uitbreiding!)...........................................................................7
3
Mode & Identiteit, Taal en Kunst.
SAMENVATTING
Auteur
Christophe Van Liedekerke
1
,Inhoud
Inhoud
2. Inleiding tot de modegeschiedenis........................................................................................................ 6
2.1. Begrippen....................................................................................................................................... 6
2.2. Van prehistorie tot Industriële revolutie.......................................................................................... 6
Kleding ontstaat in de prehistorie.........................................................................................6
Dierenhuiden....................................................................................................................... 6
Gebruikt als bescherming, rituele functie of esthetische redenen........................................6
Kleding evolueert verschillend op elk continent....................................................................6
Vilt: samenklitten van wolvezels oiv van warmte, vocht, agent (zweet/zeep), wrijving.........6
Vlasteelt: vanaf 8000 vC......................................................................................................6
Wolteelt: vanaf 6000 vC.......................................................................................................6
Stepperoute: eerste textielroute vanaf 11000 vC.................................................................6
Zijderoute: China 114 vC.....................................................................................................6
Niet altijd fysieke overblijfsel van textiel/kleding...................................................................6
Gebaseerd op restanten in graven, muurschilderingen of beeldjes......................................6
Men kon verschillende ontwikkelingen waarnemen op zelfde momenten in geschiedenis op
compleet verschillende continenten.....................................................................................6
Egypte, Grieken/Romeinen, Azië, Europa............................................................................6
Eerste naden ontstaan in de prehistorie...............................................................................6
Modegeschiedenis West-Europa.........................................................................................6
1. Griekse oudheid & WRR (tot 476 nC)..............................................................................6
2. Byzantium / ORR............................................................................................................. 6
3. Vroege middeleeuwen (400-1100 nc)..............................................................................6
Verovering RR -> invloeden klederdracht............................................................................6
Import zijde Byzantium/Midden-Oosten...............................................................................6
Weinig evolutie.................................................................................................................... 6
Decoratie met borduurwerk..................................................................................................6
4. Late middeleeuwen (1100-1400 nC)................................................................................6
Vanaf 1300: ontwikkelingen (syllabus).................................................................................6
+1350: ontstaan van Westerse mode..................................................................................6
Snelle ontwikkeling van kleding...........................................................................................6
Vanaf 1350: taillering...........................................................................................................6
Mode trend kan 10-30 jaar duren.........................................................................................6
Eerste weefgetouwen in prehistorie.....................................................................................6
Neolithicum (11000-3000 vC)..............................................................................................6
China (400 vC), Syrië (256 vC): trekweefgetouw.................................................................6
2
, Handweefgetouw (1200-1300).............................................................................................6
5. Renaissance (1400-1650 nC)..........................................................................................7
Spaanse hof bepaalt mode in Nederlanden.........................................................................7
Opkomst burgerij: kapitaalkrachtige handelaars..................................................................7
6. Verlichting: Barok & Rococo (1650-1760)........................................................................7
Franse hof dicteert mode.....................................................................................................7
Franse Revolutie..................................................................................................................7
Napoleon: simpeler maar toch nog “ontoegankelijk”............................................................7
7. Industriële Revolutie (18e -19e eeuw)...............................................................................7
1733: ° shuttle loom.............................................................................................................7
1785: ° power loom.............................................................................................................. 7
1845: semiautomatische weefmachine................................................................................7
→ ° fabrieken....................................................................................................................... 7
1804: jacquard weefgetouw.................................................................................................7
→ tekeningen + kleurverschillen..........................................................................................7
1940: shuttle-loze weefgetouwen.........................................................................................7
Industrialisatie = meer + sneller textiel produceren..............................................................7
→ ook toegankelijker........................................................................................................... 7
1755: patent voor voorloper van naaimachine.....................................................................7
= onpraktisch!...................................................................................................................... 7
1790: kettingsteekmachine..................................................................................................7
→ Werkt niet goed............................................................................................................... 7
1814: eerste naaimachine voor kleding................................................................................7
1829: eerste bruikbare naaimachine....................................................................................7
→ 1830: eerste kledingfabriek Thimonnier...........................................................................7
1844: ° lock stitch machine (John Fisher) = tweedraadsmachine.........................................7
→ patent fout ingediend!......................................................................................................7
1851: Singer patenteert wel juist..........................................................................................7
→ moet royalties betalen.....................................................................................................7
→ leasing machines.............................................................................................................7
1850-1861: machine verbetert door Wheeler & Wilson........................................................7
Naaimachine oorlog.............................................................................................................7
→ Singer, Howe, Wheeler & Wilson, Grover & Baker gooien patent samen........................7
1850: eerste knoopsgat machine.........................................................................................7
1860: naaimachine standaard in middenklasse...................................................................7
→ tijdswinst.......................................................................................................................... 7
→ eerste naaimagazines (zie uitbreiding!)...........................................................................7
3
