Summary Advanced Physical Geography Coastal Environments Essential Revision Notes A*

, WAVES =
CRICTION
-
between wind + sea surface
. Defined by FETM
-
distance
. As cediment
of + Mers/Aution)
- O Swell
=
silt
it transfers enegy formed by
Mant pebbles" cobbles
=

changes starme O distances
day sand
·
as + que waves + .




(breaking) (stare rocks)"
of nation of nation
= hight
=

law
wave s wave
,
gentle steepness +
long wavelength
. + baddes
.

12560/6020640255 (mm)
=>
orbit from cicular . .
" =
=
elliptical Sea waves
formed by Wal sams + -
SHORT distances
.

=> ①
tall ware
height , steeper gradient + chater wardength
. Clastie =

from Entering of rock
.

⑦
Factors
-
affecting wave
energy
) +
hight). Biogenic Aten/ rediments of maine .
organisms
-
- ②
Wind
velocity/strength Non-cohenie
=
.
Defined by A + BACKWASH
- =
lager moved
quin-y-Ann
.

-
>
distance . ③ ①
Letch time LENGTH . Checive particles
=
constructure law
spilling which band
-



waves - smaller
+ -
enegy + -
together.
? /unimpeded)
-

>

of sediment.
-




Repth TSWASH fat/gentle
=

height
>
565
-



1 small Apartation of
-



sea. .
- ,
+ .




Grequency (6-8/min) wardength (100m).
- -

, Ention
-



↓ + ↑ , Anton
mension Anion

amplitude (a profile)
. direction
.
=




height
=

length contelled wind
I T

Wave CHARACTERISTICS
a
i
~ , , , crates BARM
-
+ small offshore bar LSD
by prevailing
⑪
tenie pried frequency
, Destructive
-
-

high
=
,
wave
enegy
+ .
plunging swash o ↓
enegy" gravity
.



high/steep
=>

peak BACKWASH) enegy beach) tall particles smaller rounder smother
.
>
-




trough ↑ I become
-


+ + . +
, ,

1/


Sequency (12-14/mir) wavelength (20m)
. banking-up" of
-
=
-
> -

Entered
-


↓ to wave .
base ↑ + ↓ sand as ↑ size
of beach
energy

1/2 (inte profile).
-
-
-
-

of length
doudiftandford
depth acate
lage offshore bar

,
is . +



M
D
=
Wave BREAKING Wave Am as wave contacts
- Inputs
, , Aries
thes ,
sand Anes + salt macher
.




seabed + creates AN Makes starm . 1
8 COASTAL PROCESSES +
processes As of sediment.
(1 7) seabeds
=

retadation
. cutputs ession
x
beach
. offshore ,
=
.
CLIPTICAL
-
: as i s & ESSENTIALS BY CSCAR cliffs + wave
, ,
rives



.
~ *
=
I
Ener
·

plunge line
. LSD ,
human action

O (DYNAMIC
spilling breakes the beach steep COAST land
=
+ .
waves
bounday between + sea -




(11
-
-

crest. of UK
gradual peaking until unstable defined
=
SERIMENT CELL Stretch coastline in


②
Punging from
-



action tides
= = -
breakers -Steeper beach + moderate
-
.
waves MARINE
- processe An of waves + I

dynamic equilibrium -
+ coastal sediment Amet

/10020ng/m2 180m/h)
. (Christchurch Bay En)
=
-




actiai
- >
-




utical face distinct pocket Hydraulic face of water sub-cells
-




+ air . + FAL + no .




③ Cavitation
gentle
=
breakers beach Eman of
=


suging steep
-
+ -
waves
. small air , fracking rock


Cavasion/Abrasion maine
= -

reflected candeliers "wave .
=
tubulent .
bed
-



beach .
-
smooth slide up OfIHOE do impact
+
energy -
quarrying Waves sea



Attrition =
rocks hit+ smooth -
eachother) in AER Zone). INSHORE
=
no impact tide mak
. activity
.

#

Solution
·
at oblique angle influenced by temp rouesuart-low tide mal tide mak
=

aganic mids
=
Wave -
REFRACTION wave an MN + + . .




=>

bathymety of coastline tide mak "LANDWARD limit
=
bed + shape is AAR BACESHORE high - of .
MA

-
>

paralle
=

Importation
-




refracts become to above "H tide mak
.
=
wave to coast. A processe ~+
losion the sea NEARSURE
-
waves
begin to
=>
concertated dissipates (ANAs)
=
1) Mak (5-10m ).
Weathering , , zoe =
,


enegy + Amation Nation nation Creeze-thaw
u n
Breaker wave begin to


2)
Anuation/fiation
=

, wet/A
Artisation +
Suf zone
famry -
break "swar -
mace
up

3)
-




sub-airal) weeds )
>


affected by shacline (guano) (molluse) (a)
= =
As force maine Swash
-




MIDES crean basir , + . Sabich ,
+ rane Hent water


Ande (rotational stump )
-
>
=
caused systems movement rock full includes bar
tough
-




storm surffs
by intense pressur Mare either or also
langshere + .