Ocean 100 Lab Practical #2 Questions With
Complete Solutions
period (T) is the time necessary for two adjacent crests/troughs to pass a specific location
and its typical units are m/s
frequency (F) is the inverse of period (1/T) and its units are Hertz (Hz or periods during
one second)
wavelength (L) is the horizontal distance between two adjacent crests/troughs
refraction occurs when one segment of an intermediate or shallow water wave encounters
the shallower depths than other segments of the wave
longshore current majority of waves approach shoreline at an angle and therefore show
some amount of refraction. This will produce a net transport of water parallel to the shoreline
littoral drift as waves collapse along the shore, there is a transport of significant amounts
of sediment along the beach
, Ocean 100 Lab Practical #2 Questions With
Complete Solutions
what happens to a wave as it enters shallower water segment passing over the shallower
waters will SLOW DOWN MORE than the other segments causing adjacent segments in deeper
water to refract/bend inwards towards slower wave segment
in spring (HIGH TIDE) what phase of moon is it Full moon or new moon
in neap (LOW TIDE) what phase of moon is it first or third quarter
tidal range height from crest to trough
neap tides in terms of tidal range max/min high tides are a little lower ; low tides are a
little higher than average
spring tides in terms of tidal range max/min high tides are a little higher ; low tides are a
little lower than average
diurnal tides have one high tide and one low tide over 24 hr period
Complete Solutions
period (T) is the time necessary for two adjacent crests/troughs to pass a specific location
and its typical units are m/s
frequency (F) is the inverse of period (1/T) and its units are Hertz (Hz or periods during
one second)
wavelength (L) is the horizontal distance between two adjacent crests/troughs
refraction occurs when one segment of an intermediate or shallow water wave encounters
the shallower depths than other segments of the wave
longshore current majority of waves approach shoreline at an angle and therefore show
some amount of refraction. This will produce a net transport of water parallel to the shoreline
littoral drift as waves collapse along the shore, there is a transport of significant amounts
of sediment along the beach
, Ocean 100 Lab Practical #2 Questions With
Complete Solutions
what happens to a wave as it enters shallower water segment passing over the shallower
waters will SLOW DOWN MORE than the other segments causing adjacent segments in deeper
water to refract/bend inwards towards slower wave segment
in spring (HIGH TIDE) what phase of moon is it Full moon or new moon
in neap (LOW TIDE) what phase of moon is it first or third quarter
tidal range height from crest to trough
neap tides in terms of tidal range max/min high tides are a little lower ; low tides are a
little higher than average
spring tides in terms of tidal range max/min high tides are a little higher ; low tides are a
little lower than average
diurnal tides have one high tide and one low tide over 24 hr period
