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NCCER Electrical Level 1 - Module 5 Introduction to the NEC (National Electric Code) | Exam Questions and Answers 2025 What should an apprentice do first before using the NEC to look up an installation rule? Check the Table of Contents or Index to fi

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NCCER Electrical Test| Level 1 and 2| Exam Questions and Answers| Latest Update 2025 A circuit has one light that keeps flickering randomly. The voltage tests fine at the breaker. Probably a loose neutral or a bad connection at the fixture. Breakers might look good, but the issue could be at the device or junction box. You’re installing a 3-way switch circuit but one switch only works when the other is on. Sounds like the travelers are wired wrong. You might’ve swapped the common with a traveler terminal. A GFCI outlet keeps tripping even with nothing plugged in. Could be a ground fault downstream. If anything on the load side has a bad ground, the GFCI senses it and trips anyway. You’re testing continuity on a circuit that’s already energized. Not safe! You can’t test continuity on a live circuit—you’ll damage your meter or hurt yourself. You wire a light and switch in a metal box and it shocks you when you touch the switch. Probably no ground connected to the metal box. That metal box is live when not bonded properly. 2 Your multimeter shows 120V from hot to ground but 0V from hot to neutral. Neutral is open somewhere—probably a break in the return path to the panel. While roughing in a house, you realize NM cable runs across an attic with exposed nails. Not good. NM cable needs protection—either reroute it or install guard plates or conduit where physical damage is likely. You're told to connect conductors to a panel, but you forget to torque the lugs. That can cause overheating and arc faults later. Always tighten to spec using a torque screwdriver. You see black and white wires connected to a 240V breaker. Normal for 240V circuits—both wires carry current, so white should be re-identified (marked) to show it’s hot. You're using a fish tape to pull wire through conduit, but it keeps getting stuck

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NCCER Electrical Test| Level 1 and 2|
Exam Questions and Answers| Latest
Update 2025
A circuit has one light that keeps flickering randomly. The voltage tests fine at the breaker.

Probably a loose neutral or a bad connection at the fixture. Breakers might look good, but

the issue could be at the device or junction box.



You’re installing a 3-way switch circuit but one switch only works when the other is on.

Sounds like the travelers are wired wrong. You might’ve swapped the common with a

traveler terminal.



A GFCI outlet keeps tripping even with nothing plugged in.

Could be a ground fault downstream. If anything on the load side has a bad ground, the

GFCI senses it and trips anyway.



You’re testing continuity on a circuit that’s already energized.

Not safe! You can’t test continuity on a live circuit—you’ll damage your meter or hurt

yourself.



You wire a light and switch in a metal box and it shocks you when you touch the switch.

Probably no ground connected to the metal box. That metal box is live when not bonded

properly.

, 2




Your multimeter shows 120V from hot to ground but 0V from hot to neutral.

Neutral is open somewhere—probably a break in the return path to the panel.



While roughing in a house, you realize NM cable runs across an attic with exposed nails.

Not good. NM cable needs protection—either reroute it or install guard plates or conduit

where physical damage is likely.



You're told to connect conductors to a panel, but you forget to torque the lugs.

That can cause overheating and arc faults later. Always tighten to spec using a torque

screwdriver.



You see black and white wires connected to a 240V breaker.

Normal for 240V circuits—both wires carry current, so white should be re-identified

(marked) to show it’s hot.



You're using a fish tape to pull wire through conduit, but it keeps getting stuck.

Might be too many bends or rough interior. Try lube or pull in shorter sections if it’s over

360° in bends.



You connect THHN wires to a switch but don’t leave extra length in the box.

Not code-compliant. NEC says you need at least 6 inches of free conductor for splicing.
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