Semester Exam Textiles – Summary
Textiles
Lecture 1 – Yarn Constructions
Yarn Construction
- Open-end spinning = low quality
- Rim/ring spinning = high quality
Yarns – assembly of fibres or filaments having a substantial length and relatively small cross-
section, with or without twist, being the end product of a spinning and winding process.
Single Yarns
- Staple fibres: (semi-)combed, ring spun, compact
- Filaments: multifilament (flat, twisted, textured) or monofilament
- Fancy: colour, lustre, structure
- Core-spun & wrapped: yarns with core and wrapper structure
Folded Yarns
- Folded (plied) or cabled, fancy, core-spun & wrapped
- Made in a single process step, combining 2, 3 or more (dis)similar yarns into one
- E.g two fold or two ply, a.s.o.
Cabled Yarns
- Require more than one twisting stage
- Two or more folded (dis)similar yarns may be twisted together to form a cabled yarn
- E.g. two fold combined with threefold, a.s.o.
Spun Yarns
- Made by mechanical assembly and twisting together of staple fibres
- Different spinning processes used according to fibre type and length
Filament Yarns
- Made by assembly of continuous filaments, harvested from nature or formed by
extrusion of man-made chemicals through a spinneret
- Multifilament – made from multiple filaments, flat or twisted
- Can be textured (more voluminous) by introducing permanent crimp to filaments
- Monofilament – single continuous filament, spun from single-hole spinneret
Twist
- Z twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the right when the yarn is held vertically
- S twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the left when the yarn is held vertically
- Twist level – number of turns of twist per unit of length
Lecture 2 – 3 or more yarn systems
1
,Cross-section of filaments – depends on extrusion process, as there are various shapes of
holes in the spinneret.
What is the use of profiled fibres and microfibers?
- Profiled Fibres – Coolmax: moisture management system, can move perspiration
away from the body, allowing wearer to feel coolerMicrofibres – e.g. Nike: improved
moisture (perspiration) wicking properties
Bi-component fibre types: sheath core/side by side/sea-islands
Micro fibres/filaments
- Finer than one decitex
- Thin fibres that can give special properties to fabrics: soft,
supple, dense (compact)
Textured filaments
- You do this with a yarn of course, not with one single
filament
- Purpose/result: making it bulky or voluminous, stretchy, or set= stretch + stabilized
Complex Woven Fabrics
- Fabrics with 3, 4 or 5 yarn systems
- Adding yarn systems to the normal 2-yarn system
- E.g. lance/broché – has a third yarn that forms a certain design/pattern
- Pile fabrics – woven, cut or uncut
Lancé fabrics (3 y.s.)
- LOCAL pattern with extra warp/weft yarns
- Uncut: long floats at the back from pattern to pattern, often in woven labels
- Cut: floats at the back are cut away (‘clip-spot’)
Broché (3 y.s.)
- Locally weft extra yarn
- Looks like an embroidery, but is woven in
- Made on a special (swivel) loom
Woven terry (3 y.s.)
- Loop piles by extra warp yarn
- Improved thermal insulation and moisture absorption
- Names: woven terry cloth, terry velours Don’t confuse with knitted terry
- Commonly used for towels and bathrobes
- Loops can be formed on one or two sides of the fabric
- Terry velour is produced by cropping and brushing loops to get a velvet appearance
Cut pile fabrics
2
, - Third yarn system: cut fibre pile on the surface
- Velvet (extra warp), velveteen (extra weft), ribcord/corded velveteen (extra weft)
- Piles always at the same warp yarn, forming vertical lines (wales)
- W pile or V pile: W better quality wise, better connected to the basic weave
- Nap direction: brushed fabrics don’t stand straight up but have a very obvious nap
direction, colour shades, sensitive to angle of light/contact
- ‘Ausbrenners’/burnt-out velvet – locally burnt away with chemicals that burn away
several yarns
Double cloths (3/4/5 y.s.)
1. Self-stitched: Two sides look different, can be warp or weft stitches,
mainly used with jackets and coats
2. Interchanging: both sides have the same, but opposite pattern
3. Centre-stitched: 2 fabrics are bonded by an extra yarn system. Full, yet still soft &
supple, for reversible garments.
Colour woven fabrics – can be e.g. baker’s check
Lecture 3 – Fancy Yarns and Knit Constructions
Fancy yarns
- Often determine fabric name
- Can be: colour, structure, or lustre effects
- The effects can occur because of spinning, twisting or folding
Colour Effects
- Mélange/Mixture yarns: mixing fibres of different colours in spinning process
- Mouliné yarns: folding different coloured yarns with different fibres and dyeing
behaviour
- Jaspé yarns: twisting rovings of different colours
- Ombré yarn: yarn is locally (dip)dyed, runs from light to dark
- Vigoureux yarn: printing onto rovings or yarns
Structure effects
- Slub yarn: long stretched thicknesses which give the yarn a linen look
- Bourette yarn (noppengaren): small dots of (coloured) fibres are added to the fibre
mass of the carding web and fixated when twisting the yarn
- Boutonne/knob yarn (knopengaren): one yarn is locally fed with more speed than the
ground yarn. ‘Knobs’ arise, and they are fixated with a thinner 3rd yarn.
- Bouclé yarn: loop effect arises by feeding two yarns with different speeds when
folding. The effect is fixated with a 3rd yarn.
- Frisé yarn: thick and thin yarns are folded. Wavy appearance, might even give loops.
- Chenille yarn: velvet like. Fluffy with piles poking out.
Lustre effects
- Lustre and glitter yarns: mixing glittery yarns or fibres by folding
- Metallized polyester films (lurex)
Core yarns (not fancy!)
3
Textiles
Lecture 1 – Yarn Constructions
Yarn Construction
- Open-end spinning = low quality
- Rim/ring spinning = high quality
Yarns – assembly of fibres or filaments having a substantial length and relatively small cross-
section, with or without twist, being the end product of a spinning and winding process.
Single Yarns
- Staple fibres: (semi-)combed, ring spun, compact
- Filaments: multifilament (flat, twisted, textured) or monofilament
- Fancy: colour, lustre, structure
- Core-spun & wrapped: yarns with core and wrapper structure
Folded Yarns
- Folded (plied) or cabled, fancy, core-spun & wrapped
- Made in a single process step, combining 2, 3 or more (dis)similar yarns into one
- E.g two fold or two ply, a.s.o.
Cabled Yarns
- Require more than one twisting stage
- Two or more folded (dis)similar yarns may be twisted together to form a cabled yarn
- E.g. two fold combined with threefold, a.s.o.
Spun Yarns
- Made by mechanical assembly and twisting together of staple fibres
- Different spinning processes used according to fibre type and length
Filament Yarns
- Made by assembly of continuous filaments, harvested from nature or formed by
extrusion of man-made chemicals through a spinneret
- Multifilament – made from multiple filaments, flat or twisted
- Can be textured (more voluminous) by introducing permanent crimp to filaments
- Monofilament – single continuous filament, spun from single-hole spinneret
Twist
- Z twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the right when the yarn is held vertically
- S twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the left when the yarn is held vertically
- Twist level – number of turns of twist per unit of length
Lecture 2 – 3 or more yarn systems
1
,Cross-section of filaments – depends on extrusion process, as there are various shapes of
holes in the spinneret.
What is the use of profiled fibres and microfibers?
- Profiled Fibres – Coolmax: moisture management system, can move perspiration
away from the body, allowing wearer to feel coolerMicrofibres – e.g. Nike: improved
moisture (perspiration) wicking properties
Bi-component fibre types: sheath core/side by side/sea-islands
Micro fibres/filaments
- Finer than one decitex
- Thin fibres that can give special properties to fabrics: soft,
supple, dense (compact)
Textured filaments
- You do this with a yarn of course, not with one single
filament
- Purpose/result: making it bulky or voluminous, stretchy, or set= stretch + stabilized
Complex Woven Fabrics
- Fabrics with 3, 4 or 5 yarn systems
- Adding yarn systems to the normal 2-yarn system
- E.g. lance/broché – has a third yarn that forms a certain design/pattern
- Pile fabrics – woven, cut or uncut
Lancé fabrics (3 y.s.)
- LOCAL pattern with extra warp/weft yarns
- Uncut: long floats at the back from pattern to pattern, often in woven labels
- Cut: floats at the back are cut away (‘clip-spot’)
Broché (3 y.s.)
- Locally weft extra yarn
- Looks like an embroidery, but is woven in
- Made on a special (swivel) loom
Woven terry (3 y.s.)
- Loop piles by extra warp yarn
- Improved thermal insulation and moisture absorption
- Names: woven terry cloth, terry velours Don’t confuse with knitted terry
- Commonly used for towels and bathrobes
- Loops can be formed on one or two sides of the fabric
- Terry velour is produced by cropping and brushing loops to get a velvet appearance
Cut pile fabrics
2
, - Third yarn system: cut fibre pile on the surface
- Velvet (extra warp), velveteen (extra weft), ribcord/corded velveteen (extra weft)
- Piles always at the same warp yarn, forming vertical lines (wales)
- W pile or V pile: W better quality wise, better connected to the basic weave
- Nap direction: brushed fabrics don’t stand straight up but have a very obvious nap
direction, colour shades, sensitive to angle of light/contact
- ‘Ausbrenners’/burnt-out velvet – locally burnt away with chemicals that burn away
several yarns
Double cloths (3/4/5 y.s.)
1. Self-stitched: Two sides look different, can be warp or weft stitches,
mainly used with jackets and coats
2. Interchanging: both sides have the same, but opposite pattern
3. Centre-stitched: 2 fabrics are bonded by an extra yarn system. Full, yet still soft &
supple, for reversible garments.
Colour woven fabrics – can be e.g. baker’s check
Lecture 3 – Fancy Yarns and Knit Constructions
Fancy yarns
- Often determine fabric name
- Can be: colour, structure, or lustre effects
- The effects can occur because of spinning, twisting or folding
Colour Effects
- Mélange/Mixture yarns: mixing fibres of different colours in spinning process
- Mouliné yarns: folding different coloured yarns with different fibres and dyeing
behaviour
- Jaspé yarns: twisting rovings of different colours
- Ombré yarn: yarn is locally (dip)dyed, runs from light to dark
- Vigoureux yarn: printing onto rovings or yarns
Structure effects
- Slub yarn: long stretched thicknesses which give the yarn a linen look
- Bourette yarn (noppengaren): small dots of (coloured) fibres are added to the fibre
mass of the carding web and fixated when twisting the yarn
- Boutonne/knob yarn (knopengaren): one yarn is locally fed with more speed than the
ground yarn. ‘Knobs’ arise, and they are fixated with a thinner 3rd yarn.
- Bouclé yarn: loop effect arises by feeding two yarns with different speeds when
folding. The effect is fixated with a 3rd yarn.
- Frisé yarn: thick and thin yarns are folded. Wavy appearance, might even give loops.
- Chenille yarn: velvet like. Fluffy with piles poking out.
Lustre effects
- Lustre and glitter yarns: mixing glittery yarns or fibres by folding
- Metallized polyester films (lurex)
Core yarns (not fancy!)
3
