Skin care
Skin analysis presentation
Primary objective
• Improve barrier function
• Improve muscle tone
• Improve circulation
• Improve pigmentation
• Improve sebaceous secretion
• Improve TEWL / hydrate
• Decongest
• Soothe / desensitise
• Reduce sebaceous secretion
• Reduce excessive keratinisation
Consultation.
➢ Gain information for administrative purposes. Contact details, medical history and record of treatments and results.
➢ Create a relationship with the client through following up on birthdays, holidays and children.
➢ Customise treatment plan and goals to be achieved
➢ Provides a high level of professionalism
➢ Serves as protection for the client and for the therapist
Facial compress
Increase luxuriousness. Complete removal of cleanser, secondary cleanser, massage cream or mask.
Do not use on hypersensitive or couperose skin as this might be too stimulating
▫ Expands follicle opening, which allows for better removal of dirt, sebum, comedones and debris from the follicles.
▫ Thermal effect stimulates circulation, which improves cell nourishment
▫ Relaxes skin tissue and has an overall relaxing effect on the client
Facial massage
A series of specific movements or manipulations applied to the face, using various parts of the hands to achieve a specific effect.
Increases the skin’s capacity to function more efficiently and thus improves texture, colour and muscle tone.
Posture during facial massage
Both feet flat on the floor, back straight and ears in line with shoulders, knees positioned shoulder width apart and never rest elbows on
the plinth. The height of the chair should allow the plinth to be in line with the therapist’s navel.
Adaptations during facial massage
Shiatsu (finger pressure) oriental massage applied on the basis that key points relate to certain body areas vie meridian lines.
Lymph drainage: Vodder technique. Slow massage movements and very light pressure.
Pressure: increase pressure towards the heart
Benefits of facial massage:
• Anti-ageing
• Improve sleep Indications
• Ease pain and tension • Normal skin, requiring cleansing, balancing and refinement
• Boost immunity • Alipidic + TEWL to stimulate cellular function
• Increase collagen and elastin production • Mature skin for regeneration and deep stimulation
• Improve dull sallow appearance • Oily skin for cleansing and toning to remove keratinised cells
• Loosen congestion • Nervous tension or fatigue
• Reduce oedema
• Increase hydration and nourishment
• Reduce stress
Contra-indications:
▫ Absolute: hypersensitive skin prone to allergic reactions, extreme vascularity, acute inflammation, skin irritation or infection and
current head- or tooth ache
▫ Relative: diabetic clients, excessively loose skin, oedema and braces.
Skin analysis
• Track improvemtns and alterations
• Address the client’s needs and concerns effectively
• Guage the efficacy of the treatment approach
• Identify other treatment options when they become viable
1. Lipid balance
2. Hydric / moisture balance
3. Epidermal thickness
4. Texture
5. Complexion and phototype
6. Ease of stimulation
, Skin type: balanced, oily, alipidic or combination
• Balanced: evenly supplied with oil and moisture. Slightly more acidic which protects against microbial infections. Good hydration
and active blood circulation. *maintain skin condition
• Oily: overactive sebaceous gland. Produces excess sebum. Prone to blemishes and congestion. TEWL, thick epidermis and
unrefined texture. *normalise sebaceous secretion.
• Alipidic skin: low sebum levels, TEWL and high colour. *stimulate sebaceous gland to supply natural oils
Skin conditions
o Melasma: yellow-brown pigmentation. Melanocyte stimulating hormone
o Solar lentigo: age spots
o Poikiloderma: hyper- and hypopigmentation with redness and vascularity.
o Solar keratosis: scaly, raised, dry and rough surface. Pre-cancerous lesion.
o Post inflammatory pigmentation: scarring and pigmentation
o Ochronosis: dark blue pigmentation mark
o Leukoderma: absence of pigment
o Vitiligo: non-scaly white patches, where pigment disappears
o Albinism: little pigment in eyes, hair and skin. Photo sensitive
o Telangiectasia: permanently dilated capillaries – web like form. Caused by excess oestrogen, digestive disorders or rosacea.
Eat slowly, avoid spicy foods and wear sunscreen to protect the skin.
o Erythroses: permanent high colour. Sensitive skin
o Erythema: temporary redness
o Vaso reactive: being vascular. Predisposition to erythroses
o Strawberry naevus: raised, red-brown tumour-like structure
o Cherry angioma: benign tumour of dilated blood vessels
o Port wine stain: purple birth mark
o Spider naevus: bright, red spot, surrounded by radiating red legs
o Venous lake: benign, blue nodule. Superficial pooling of blood
o Seborrhoea: excessive secretion of sebum. Disease of sebaceous gland
o Scars:
▪ Keloid: raised, itchy and inflamed
▪ Hypertrophic: raised, within limits of original wound
▪ Atrophic: sunken scars
o Superfluous hair: unwanted hair
o Folliculitis: inflammation of hair follicle
o Xanthelasma: yellow bumps on eyelids
o Herpes simplex: cold sores
o Fibro-epithelial polyps: skintags
o Psoriasis: large, scaly patches
o Eczema: inflammatory process. Extreme dryness
o Urticaria: hives. Raised, red and itchy welts
o Excess keratinisation: large scales of thickening of the horny layer. Skin appears dull.
o Rhytids: wrinkles. Decrease in retained moisture. Static or dynamic.
o Wart: skin tumour
o Seborrheic keratosis: pigmented benign tumour. Sun damage.
o Muscle tone: uneven skin texture
o Tan: exposure to the sun
o Ephelides: freckles
o Macule: discoloured, level spot.
o Naevus: firm nodule with hair growth. ABCDE check.
o Rosacea: blood vessel dilation of the blushing zones. Presents with raised, red bumps
o Comedome: clogged hair follicle
▪ Blackhead: open on the surface
▪ Whitehead: closed on the surface
o Papule: red, solid, elevated lesion that contains no puss
o Pustule: raised lesion that contains puss
o Cyst: fluid less lesion
o Sebaceous cyst: cyst filled with sebum. blocked sebaceous gland
o Millium: keratin trapped in the epidermis. Tiny, superficial cyst
o Nodule: hard, solid lesion
o Underlying congestion
o Keratosis pilaris: hair follicle blocked with keratin
Trans-epidermal water loss
Caused be evaporation due to removal of sebum layer with soap. Enlarged orifices and lack of sebum.
Impaired barrier function
Acid mantle is compromised. Skin will feel hot, burning and itchy with high colour and blotchiness. Over secretion of sebum and essential
fatty acid deficiency. Loss of structural integrity and trans-epidermal water loss.
Sensitive skin: delicate skin that reacts to products and external factors
Reactive skin: prone to allergies, eczema and product reactions.
Vit A:
▫ Treatment for acne, loss of elasticity and sun damage
▫ Increases skin metabolism – rejuvenates
▫ Increases micro-circulation – nourishment
▫ Production of collagen and elastin
▫ Skin sheds cells faster – improved desquamation
, Check eating habits – include berries, salmon, garlic, sardines, capers, pumpkin seeds and turmeric
Vit A, B and C as well as anti-oxidants
EFAs and multi-vitamins
Why does the skin become unbalanced
Food, exercise, bad habits like smoking, medication, over exposure to the sun, lack of skin care, psyche, fatigue and stress, environmental
factors
Wood’s lamp
Skin scanner that utilises trans illumination to detect skin conditions. Developed by Robert Williams Wood as a black / UV light test.
Helps to analyse skin conditions as they show different colours when viewed under the light.
Uses:
• Analyse deep and surface layers of the skin
• Determine skin conditions and treatment
• Able to see blemishes that are not visible to the naked eye
• Medical use to diagnose ringworm
How the lamp works:
▫ Works best in a dark room
▫ Skin should be cleansed thoroughly before use
▫ UV rays are filtered through a glass screen
▫ Woo light emits 320-400 nm UV rays
Concerns:
» Claustrophobia: shorten analysis to avoid panic
» UV light: narrow spectrum and portion of rays are
not damaging to the eyes or skin in a short time
Colour Skin condition
Blue-violet Normal skin
Pale violet Alipidic skin
Deep violet Moistured skin
Whitish Thick, keratinised skin
Dark Slightly keratinised skin
Greenish white Small boils and acne
Chalky white Psoriasis and desquamation
Bright silver white Thickening of stratum corneum
Bright fluorescence Hydrated skin
Weak fluorescence TEWL
Scarlet tones LOSI
Shades of scarlet Thinner areas and diffused redness
Yellow, melon, orange All sebaceous activity
Lilac EFAD – essential fatty acid deficiency
Shades of brown Hyperpigmentation
Whiter fluorescence Thicker skin
Pale grey, violet Healthy scalp and hair
White specks Dandruff
White Bleached hair
Bright, white fluorescence Nails
Skin analysis presentation
Primary objective
• Improve barrier function
• Improve muscle tone
• Improve circulation
• Improve pigmentation
• Improve sebaceous secretion
• Improve TEWL / hydrate
• Decongest
• Soothe / desensitise
• Reduce sebaceous secretion
• Reduce excessive keratinisation
Consultation.
➢ Gain information for administrative purposes. Contact details, medical history and record of treatments and results.
➢ Create a relationship with the client through following up on birthdays, holidays and children.
➢ Customise treatment plan and goals to be achieved
➢ Provides a high level of professionalism
➢ Serves as protection for the client and for the therapist
Facial compress
Increase luxuriousness. Complete removal of cleanser, secondary cleanser, massage cream or mask.
Do not use on hypersensitive or couperose skin as this might be too stimulating
▫ Expands follicle opening, which allows for better removal of dirt, sebum, comedones and debris from the follicles.
▫ Thermal effect stimulates circulation, which improves cell nourishment
▫ Relaxes skin tissue and has an overall relaxing effect on the client
Facial massage
A series of specific movements or manipulations applied to the face, using various parts of the hands to achieve a specific effect.
Increases the skin’s capacity to function more efficiently and thus improves texture, colour and muscle tone.
Posture during facial massage
Both feet flat on the floor, back straight and ears in line with shoulders, knees positioned shoulder width apart and never rest elbows on
the plinth. The height of the chair should allow the plinth to be in line with the therapist’s navel.
Adaptations during facial massage
Shiatsu (finger pressure) oriental massage applied on the basis that key points relate to certain body areas vie meridian lines.
Lymph drainage: Vodder technique. Slow massage movements and very light pressure.
Pressure: increase pressure towards the heart
Benefits of facial massage:
• Anti-ageing
• Improve sleep Indications
• Ease pain and tension • Normal skin, requiring cleansing, balancing and refinement
• Boost immunity • Alipidic + TEWL to stimulate cellular function
• Increase collagen and elastin production • Mature skin for regeneration and deep stimulation
• Improve dull sallow appearance • Oily skin for cleansing and toning to remove keratinised cells
• Loosen congestion • Nervous tension or fatigue
• Reduce oedema
• Increase hydration and nourishment
• Reduce stress
Contra-indications:
▫ Absolute: hypersensitive skin prone to allergic reactions, extreme vascularity, acute inflammation, skin irritation or infection and
current head- or tooth ache
▫ Relative: diabetic clients, excessively loose skin, oedema and braces.
Skin analysis
• Track improvemtns and alterations
• Address the client’s needs and concerns effectively
• Guage the efficacy of the treatment approach
• Identify other treatment options when they become viable
1. Lipid balance
2. Hydric / moisture balance
3. Epidermal thickness
4. Texture
5. Complexion and phototype
6. Ease of stimulation
, Skin type: balanced, oily, alipidic or combination
• Balanced: evenly supplied with oil and moisture. Slightly more acidic which protects against microbial infections. Good hydration
and active blood circulation. *maintain skin condition
• Oily: overactive sebaceous gland. Produces excess sebum. Prone to blemishes and congestion. TEWL, thick epidermis and
unrefined texture. *normalise sebaceous secretion.
• Alipidic skin: low sebum levels, TEWL and high colour. *stimulate sebaceous gland to supply natural oils
Skin conditions
o Melasma: yellow-brown pigmentation. Melanocyte stimulating hormone
o Solar lentigo: age spots
o Poikiloderma: hyper- and hypopigmentation with redness and vascularity.
o Solar keratosis: scaly, raised, dry and rough surface. Pre-cancerous lesion.
o Post inflammatory pigmentation: scarring and pigmentation
o Ochronosis: dark blue pigmentation mark
o Leukoderma: absence of pigment
o Vitiligo: non-scaly white patches, where pigment disappears
o Albinism: little pigment in eyes, hair and skin. Photo sensitive
o Telangiectasia: permanently dilated capillaries – web like form. Caused by excess oestrogen, digestive disorders or rosacea.
Eat slowly, avoid spicy foods and wear sunscreen to protect the skin.
o Erythroses: permanent high colour. Sensitive skin
o Erythema: temporary redness
o Vaso reactive: being vascular. Predisposition to erythroses
o Strawberry naevus: raised, red-brown tumour-like structure
o Cherry angioma: benign tumour of dilated blood vessels
o Port wine stain: purple birth mark
o Spider naevus: bright, red spot, surrounded by radiating red legs
o Venous lake: benign, blue nodule. Superficial pooling of blood
o Seborrhoea: excessive secretion of sebum. Disease of sebaceous gland
o Scars:
▪ Keloid: raised, itchy and inflamed
▪ Hypertrophic: raised, within limits of original wound
▪ Atrophic: sunken scars
o Superfluous hair: unwanted hair
o Folliculitis: inflammation of hair follicle
o Xanthelasma: yellow bumps on eyelids
o Herpes simplex: cold sores
o Fibro-epithelial polyps: skintags
o Psoriasis: large, scaly patches
o Eczema: inflammatory process. Extreme dryness
o Urticaria: hives. Raised, red and itchy welts
o Excess keratinisation: large scales of thickening of the horny layer. Skin appears dull.
o Rhytids: wrinkles. Decrease in retained moisture. Static or dynamic.
o Wart: skin tumour
o Seborrheic keratosis: pigmented benign tumour. Sun damage.
o Muscle tone: uneven skin texture
o Tan: exposure to the sun
o Ephelides: freckles
o Macule: discoloured, level spot.
o Naevus: firm nodule with hair growth. ABCDE check.
o Rosacea: blood vessel dilation of the blushing zones. Presents with raised, red bumps
o Comedome: clogged hair follicle
▪ Blackhead: open on the surface
▪ Whitehead: closed on the surface
o Papule: red, solid, elevated lesion that contains no puss
o Pustule: raised lesion that contains puss
o Cyst: fluid less lesion
o Sebaceous cyst: cyst filled with sebum. blocked sebaceous gland
o Millium: keratin trapped in the epidermis. Tiny, superficial cyst
o Nodule: hard, solid lesion
o Underlying congestion
o Keratosis pilaris: hair follicle blocked with keratin
Trans-epidermal water loss
Caused be evaporation due to removal of sebum layer with soap. Enlarged orifices and lack of sebum.
Impaired barrier function
Acid mantle is compromised. Skin will feel hot, burning and itchy with high colour and blotchiness. Over secretion of sebum and essential
fatty acid deficiency. Loss of structural integrity and trans-epidermal water loss.
Sensitive skin: delicate skin that reacts to products and external factors
Reactive skin: prone to allergies, eczema and product reactions.
Vit A:
▫ Treatment for acne, loss of elasticity and sun damage
▫ Increases skin metabolism – rejuvenates
▫ Increases micro-circulation – nourishment
▫ Production of collagen and elastin
▫ Skin sheds cells faster – improved desquamation
, Check eating habits – include berries, salmon, garlic, sardines, capers, pumpkin seeds and turmeric
Vit A, B and C as well as anti-oxidants
EFAs and multi-vitamins
Why does the skin become unbalanced
Food, exercise, bad habits like smoking, medication, over exposure to the sun, lack of skin care, psyche, fatigue and stress, environmental
factors
Wood’s lamp
Skin scanner that utilises trans illumination to detect skin conditions. Developed by Robert Williams Wood as a black / UV light test.
Helps to analyse skin conditions as they show different colours when viewed under the light.
Uses:
• Analyse deep and surface layers of the skin
• Determine skin conditions and treatment
• Able to see blemishes that are not visible to the naked eye
• Medical use to diagnose ringworm
How the lamp works:
▫ Works best in a dark room
▫ Skin should be cleansed thoroughly before use
▫ UV rays are filtered through a glass screen
▫ Woo light emits 320-400 nm UV rays
Concerns:
» Claustrophobia: shorten analysis to avoid panic
» UV light: narrow spectrum and portion of rays are
not damaging to the eyes or skin in a short time
Colour Skin condition
Blue-violet Normal skin
Pale violet Alipidic skin
Deep violet Moistured skin
Whitish Thick, keratinised skin
Dark Slightly keratinised skin
Greenish white Small boils and acne
Chalky white Psoriasis and desquamation
Bright silver white Thickening of stratum corneum
Bright fluorescence Hydrated skin
Weak fluorescence TEWL
Scarlet tones LOSI
Shades of scarlet Thinner areas and diffused redness
Yellow, melon, orange All sebaceous activity
Lilac EFAD – essential fatty acid deficiency
Shades of brown Hyperpigmentation
Whiter fluorescence Thicker skin
Pale grey, violet Healthy scalp and hair
White specks Dandruff
White Bleached hair
Bright, white fluorescence Nails
