ALL OF COASTS
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the coast is an example of an open system with both energy and
system material flowing through it. These systems across all scale (from
micro to macro.)
the state of balance within a system along a coastline some
locations may receive an increased level of wave energy (due to
equilibrium
a storm for example) which will affect the wave erosion, which in
turn will lead to an increased cliff collapse.
a response to a change in a system. positive feedback amplifies
feedback the change whilst negative feedback reduces the effect of the
change.
transfer/flow the movement of matter between one store and another
store where matter is temporarily held within a system
isolated system no interactions with anything outside the system boundary (v rare)
energy is transferred into and out of the system. all matter is
closed system
enclosed (eg. the global water and carbon cycles)
matter and energy can be transferred from the system into the
open system
surrounding environment
where the effects of an action are amplified by the changes to the
positive feedback
inputs/outputs/processes
where the effects of an action are nullified by the changes to the
negative feedback
inputs/outputs/processes
fluvial processes processes relating to rivers
aolian processes processes involving the wind
are distinguishable areas containing particular assemblage of hu-
landscape features man and or physical features. they are a combination of the inputs,
stores, flows and outputs of the coast.
are natural physical features which often can occur as part of a
landforms
landscape. a combination of landforms make a landscape.
backshore most high part of beach, affected (only) by storm activity
incorporates foreshore and inshore zones. It includes the: swash
nearshore
zone, surf zone and breaker zone
where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach after the
swash zone
breaking of a wave
the area between the point where the waves break and where
surf zone
waves move up the beach as swash
the area where waves approach the coastline and begin to break
breaker zone
(5-10m depth of water)
area beyond inshore (marine direction) where activity is limited to
offshore
deposition of sediment
area between high water mark and low water mark (the beach)
foreshore
where marine processes more important
area between low water mark and where the waves do not influ-
inshore
ence the land beneath them
what are the sources of energy in coastal environments wind, waves, tides and currents
the distance of open water over which the wind blows uninter-
the fetch rupted by the major land obstacles. longer fetch=longer magnitude
waves
the weathering away of the earths surface by the mechanical
erosion
action of glaciers, river, wind, marine waves
the movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity,
mass movement
but may also be assisted by rainfall
, ALL OF COASTS
Study online at https://quizlet.com/_docloq
the breakdown and or decay of rock at or near the earths surface.
weathering
Its in situ and can be mechanical, biological or chemical
change in the water level in the ocean caused by the gravitational
tide
pull of the moon (and to a lesser extent) the sun
caused by the moon, making the earth and its water bulge out on
tidal force
either side
tidal range the difference between water level at high and low tide
macrotidal More than 4m
mesotidal between 2-4 m
microtidal Less than 2m
low pressure event where meteorological conditions give rise to
tidal surge strong winds and therefore much higher water levels than at high
tide
permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in the seas
current
and oceans which transfers energy to drive the coastal system
Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and
longshore or littoral drift backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction
of the prevailing wind and waves.
The action of water receding back down the beach towards the
backwash
sea
Waves with a low wave height, but with a long wavelength and low
frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more pow-
constructive waves
erful than their backwash and as a consequence beach material
is built up.
Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high fre-
destructive waves quency (10-14/min). Their swash is generally stronger than their
backwash, so more sediment is removed than is added.
swash the rush of water up a beach when the wave breaks
energy - waves, wind, current and tides
coast system inputs
material - sediment and water
coast system stores sand dunes and beaches, land and the sea
coastal landforms, accumulation of sediment (dunes), loss of en-
coast system outputs
ergy through processes such as refraction
3 types of currents longshore currents/littoral drift, rip currents, upwelling
This generates the current on water which is parallel to the shore-
longshore current line which moves he water along the surface zone and transports
sediment
These are strong currents moving away from the shoreline. Initially
rip currents the current may run parallel to the coast before flowing out through
the breaker zone
This is the movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards
upwelling the surface and the more dense cold water replaces the warmer
surface water creating nutrient rich cold currents.
Tidal or storm surges are occasions where meteorological con-
tidal surges ditions give rise to strong winds which can produce much higher
water levels than those at high tide
A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition
low energy coast
often exceeds the rate of erosion of sediment
A coastline where strong, steady prevailing winds create high
high energy coast energy waves and the rate of erosion is greater than the rate of
deposition.
Study online at https://quizlet.com/_docloq
the coast is an example of an open system with both energy and
system material flowing through it. These systems across all scale (from
micro to macro.)
the state of balance within a system along a coastline some
locations may receive an increased level of wave energy (due to
equilibrium
a storm for example) which will affect the wave erosion, which in
turn will lead to an increased cliff collapse.
a response to a change in a system. positive feedback amplifies
feedback the change whilst negative feedback reduces the effect of the
change.
transfer/flow the movement of matter between one store and another
store where matter is temporarily held within a system
isolated system no interactions with anything outside the system boundary (v rare)
energy is transferred into and out of the system. all matter is
closed system
enclosed (eg. the global water and carbon cycles)
matter and energy can be transferred from the system into the
open system
surrounding environment
where the effects of an action are amplified by the changes to the
positive feedback
inputs/outputs/processes
where the effects of an action are nullified by the changes to the
negative feedback
inputs/outputs/processes
fluvial processes processes relating to rivers
aolian processes processes involving the wind
are distinguishable areas containing particular assemblage of hu-
landscape features man and or physical features. they are a combination of the inputs,
stores, flows and outputs of the coast.
are natural physical features which often can occur as part of a
landforms
landscape. a combination of landforms make a landscape.
backshore most high part of beach, affected (only) by storm activity
incorporates foreshore and inshore zones. It includes the: swash
nearshore
zone, surf zone and breaker zone
where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach after the
swash zone
breaking of a wave
the area between the point where the waves break and where
surf zone
waves move up the beach as swash
the area where waves approach the coastline and begin to break
breaker zone
(5-10m depth of water)
area beyond inshore (marine direction) where activity is limited to
offshore
deposition of sediment
area between high water mark and low water mark (the beach)
foreshore
where marine processes more important
area between low water mark and where the waves do not influ-
inshore
ence the land beneath them
what are the sources of energy in coastal environments wind, waves, tides and currents
the distance of open water over which the wind blows uninter-
the fetch rupted by the major land obstacles. longer fetch=longer magnitude
waves
the weathering away of the earths surface by the mechanical
erosion
action of glaciers, river, wind, marine waves
the movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity,
mass movement
but may also be assisted by rainfall
, ALL OF COASTS
Study online at https://quizlet.com/_docloq
the breakdown and or decay of rock at or near the earths surface.
weathering
Its in situ and can be mechanical, biological or chemical
change in the water level in the ocean caused by the gravitational
tide
pull of the moon (and to a lesser extent) the sun
caused by the moon, making the earth and its water bulge out on
tidal force
either side
tidal range the difference between water level at high and low tide
macrotidal More than 4m
mesotidal between 2-4 m
microtidal Less than 2m
low pressure event where meteorological conditions give rise to
tidal surge strong winds and therefore much higher water levels than at high
tide
permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in the seas
current
and oceans which transfers energy to drive the coastal system
Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and
longshore or littoral drift backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction
of the prevailing wind and waves.
The action of water receding back down the beach towards the
backwash
sea
Waves with a low wave height, but with a long wavelength and low
frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more pow-
constructive waves
erful than their backwash and as a consequence beach material
is built up.
Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high fre-
destructive waves quency (10-14/min). Their swash is generally stronger than their
backwash, so more sediment is removed than is added.
swash the rush of water up a beach when the wave breaks
energy - waves, wind, current and tides
coast system inputs
material - sediment and water
coast system stores sand dunes and beaches, land and the sea
coastal landforms, accumulation of sediment (dunes), loss of en-
coast system outputs
ergy through processes such as refraction
3 types of currents longshore currents/littoral drift, rip currents, upwelling
This generates the current on water which is parallel to the shore-
longshore current line which moves he water along the surface zone and transports
sediment
These are strong currents moving away from the shoreline. Initially
rip currents the current may run parallel to the coast before flowing out through
the breaker zone
This is the movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards
upwelling the surface and the more dense cold water replaces the warmer
surface water creating nutrient rich cold currents.
Tidal or storm surges are occasions where meteorological con-
tidal surges ditions give rise to strong winds which can produce much higher
water levels than those at high tide
A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition
low energy coast
often exceeds the rate of erosion of sediment
A coastline where strong, steady prevailing winds create high
high energy coast energy waves and the rate of erosion is greater than the rate of
deposition.
