Chapter 13 - Advanced Topics and Treatments
Explain Advanced Skin Care Topics and Treatments for Licensed, Trained Estheticians - (correct Answer) -
Advanced treatments have expanded the esthetician's repertoire to include more results-driven
treatments such as chemical exfoliation and microdermabrasion, microcurrent, ultrasound, and light
emitting diode (LED)
Estheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of advanced topics and treatments
because: - (correct Answer) - 1. Advanced machine technology is always being developed and improved
upon, and some of these technologies are expansions from the original formats
2. Offering advanced treatments will keep technicians competitive in the marketplace
3. The esthetician's professional expertise in analyzing the skin and recommending the best program
helps make these procedures safe and effective
What is chemical exfoliation - (correct Answer) - the process of removing excess accumulations of dead
skin cells from the corneum layers of epidermis as superficial peeling, exfoliation, keratolysis, and
desquamation. The process can be accomplished mechanically (microdermabrasion), manually (scrubs),
or chemically by the use of specific products (enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid
(BHA), light Jessner's, and light trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels) formulated to achieve this result
Describe chemical exfoliation and peels - (correct Answer) - 1.Peels and chemical exfoliation services are
efficient and take less time than the more relaxing, in-depth facials.
2.Peels and chemical exfoliation services yield more significant results, help produce a clinical change in
the skin, and are commonly used to address photoaging, acne, and hyperpigmentation, in addition to
other conditions.
3. Protocols vary depending on the product line, but the basic process consists of applying the product,
neutralizing, and removing it within a few minutes
Acid, Alkaline, and pH Relationships - (correct Answer) - pH is an especially important consideration in
peel products.
1. Acids have a pH of 0 to 6; neutral is 7
2. Alkaline range from 8 to 14
3. The average pH of skin 5.0 (typically between 4.5 to 5.5)
4. A pH of less than 3 is not recommended for salon peels, and most states do not allow use of a lower
pH.
5. Buffering agents are ingredients added to products to help make them less irritating
The acid needs to have a pH lower than the skin's pH to be effective - (correct Answer) - 1. A spa level of
, 30 percent concentration of glycolic acid is usually formulated to have a pH of 3 if it is buffered properly
2. Physician peels have a higher percentage concentration and lower pH
3. Over the counter (OTC) AHA home care product formulations contain from 2 to 15 percent acid
4. AHA home care product formulations sold by spas range from 5 to 10 percent acid
5. Physicians carry home care products with higher percentages of acid.
Cell Renewal Factor (CRF) - (correct Answer) - also known as cell turnover rate, is the rate of cell mitosis
and migration from the dermis to the top of the epidermis. This process slows down with age. The
average rate of cell turnover for babies is 14 days; for teenagers, 21 to 28 days; for adults, 28 to 42 days;
for those 50 and older, 42 to 84 days.
Factors influencing the CRF - (correct Answer) - 1. Genetics
2. The natural environment
3. One's medical history
4. Lifestyle
5. Personal care
6. Exfoliation Methods
The keratinized corneum layer is composed of approximately 15 to 20 layers and varies in thickness in
different body areas
Light, Medium, and Deep Peels - What is the difference? - (correct Answer) - Superficial peeling removes
cells from only the stratum corneum. Superficial or light peels (chemical exfoliators) are esthetician
administered and and generally include enzymes, glycolic acid (30 percent or less), lactic acid (30 percent
or less), and is some cases Jessner's solution and low percentage TCA (one to three layers).
The term chemical exfoliation is sometimes used in place of the word peel to differentiate between the
medium and deeper clinical peels and the lighter chemical exfoliation used in spas
Physicians use high strength peel formulations that are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin (the
dermal layer). These peels are commonly referred to as medium or deep peels
Medium-depth peels are performed primarily with stronger TCA concentrations by physicians to remove
the entire epidermis and part of the papillary dermis
Peels administered by physicians make use of the following chemicals: - (correct Answer) - 1. Resorcinol
2. Phenol (carbolic acid, also called Baker's peel)
3. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
4. Glycolic acid (50 percent or more)
Explain Advanced Skin Care Topics and Treatments for Licensed, Trained Estheticians - (correct Answer) -
Advanced treatments have expanded the esthetician's repertoire to include more results-driven
treatments such as chemical exfoliation and microdermabrasion, microcurrent, ultrasound, and light
emitting diode (LED)
Estheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of advanced topics and treatments
because: - (correct Answer) - 1. Advanced machine technology is always being developed and improved
upon, and some of these technologies are expansions from the original formats
2. Offering advanced treatments will keep technicians competitive in the marketplace
3. The esthetician's professional expertise in analyzing the skin and recommending the best program
helps make these procedures safe and effective
What is chemical exfoliation - (correct Answer) - the process of removing excess accumulations of dead
skin cells from the corneum layers of epidermis as superficial peeling, exfoliation, keratolysis, and
desquamation. The process can be accomplished mechanically (microdermabrasion), manually (scrubs),
or chemically by the use of specific products (enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid
(BHA), light Jessner's, and light trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels) formulated to achieve this result
Describe chemical exfoliation and peels - (correct Answer) - 1.Peels and chemical exfoliation services are
efficient and take less time than the more relaxing, in-depth facials.
2.Peels and chemical exfoliation services yield more significant results, help produce a clinical change in
the skin, and are commonly used to address photoaging, acne, and hyperpigmentation, in addition to
other conditions.
3. Protocols vary depending on the product line, but the basic process consists of applying the product,
neutralizing, and removing it within a few minutes
Acid, Alkaline, and pH Relationships - (correct Answer) - pH is an especially important consideration in
peel products.
1. Acids have a pH of 0 to 6; neutral is 7
2. Alkaline range from 8 to 14
3. The average pH of skin 5.0 (typically between 4.5 to 5.5)
4. A pH of less than 3 is not recommended for salon peels, and most states do not allow use of a lower
pH.
5. Buffering agents are ingredients added to products to help make them less irritating
The acid needs to have a pH lower than the skin's pH to be effective - (correct Answer) - 1. A spa level of
, 30 percent concentration of glycolic acid is usually formulated to have a pH of 3 if it is buffered properly
2. Physician peels have a higher percentage concentration and lower pH
3. Over the counter (OTC) AHA home care product formulations contain from 2 to 15 percent acid
4. AHA home care product formulations sold by spas range from 5 to 10 percent acid
5. Physicians carry home care products with higher percentages of acid.
Cell Renewal Factor (CRF) - (correct Answer) - also known as cell turnover rate, is the rate of cell mitosis
and migration from the dermis to the top of the epidermis. This process slows down with age. The
average rate of cell turnover for babies is 14 days; for teenagers, 21 to 28 days; for adults, 28 to 42 days;
for those 50 and older, 42 to 84 days.
Factors influencing the CRF - (correct Answer) - 1. Genetics
2. The natural environment
3. One's medical history
4. Lifestyle
5. Personal care
6. Exfoliation Methods
The keratinized corneum layer is composed of approximately 15 to 20 layers and varies in thickness in
different body areas
Light, Medium, and Deep Peels - What is the difference? - (correct Answer) - Superficial peeling removes
cells from only the stratum corneum. Superficial or light peels (chemical exfoliators) are esthetician
administered and and generally include enzymes, glycolic acid (30 percent or less), lactic acid (30 percent
or less), and is some cases Jessner's solution and low percentage TCA (one to three layers).
The term chemical exfoliation is sometimes used in place of the word peel to differentiate between the
medium and deeper clinical peels and the lighter chemical exfoliation used in spas
Physicians use high strength peel formulations that are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin (the
dermal layer). These peels are commonly referred to as medium or deep peels
Medium-depth peels are performed primarily with stronger TCA concentrations by physicians to remove
the entire epidermis and part of the papillary dermis
Peels administered by physicians make use of the following chemicals: - (correct Answer) - 1. Resorcinol
2. Phenol (carbolic acid, also called Baker's peel)
3. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
4. Glycolic acid (50 percent or more)
