Rope Rescue Technician
Acute Bad Judgement Syndrome - Answer-Occurs when adventures don't truly understand the
consequences of their decisions
Take the time to do a reality check - Answer-Don't overestimate your groups ability, take the time to
observe all facts, clues, ability level, and skill set before making a "go or no go" decision
Maintain high situational awareness
Most common accidents in mountaineering: - Answer-1.) fall or slip on rock
2.) fall or slip on snow or ice
3.) falling rock, ice, or object
Most frequent contributing causes to accidents in mountaineering: - Answer-1.) climbing without ropes
2.) exceeding one's ability
3.) having an adequate equipment/clothing
4.) placing inadequate or no protection
5.) weather
Utilize checklists: - Answer-Reduces errors and omissions in:
- technical procedures, and medical procedures
,- deployment briefing's for permission profiles
- equipment checklist
Safety - Answer-Resounding theme of mountain rescue operations
+ personal safety = group safety
Minimizing risks: - Answer-- pre-plan as much as you can
- conduct trailhead safety briefing so everyone understands the mission/goal
- use redundant systems or systems with belay lines
- conduct frequent reality checks
- utilize safety checks with checklists
- don't rush through your rigging; do it right and do it perfectly
- train hard so you can rescue easily
Decision making: - Answer-3 main types: heuristics, analytical, expertise
- perfect decision making doesn't exist
Heuristics - Answer--mental shortcuts or "rules of thumb" that we employ to make decisions
Pitfalls of Heuristics: - Answer-1.) familiarity:
2.) acceptance:
3.) consistency/commitment
4.) expert halo
5.) track/scarcity
6.) social proof
,Common mountaineering heuristics: - Answer-- don't climb alone
- always wear a helmet
- climb within your ability level
- get good beta on the route before heading out
- leave detailed itinerary with a reliable person
- stick to your itinerary
- establish "go, or no go" conditions
- establish a safe turnaround time
- don't travel solo on glaciers
- use two ropes when training
- system should pass "whistle test"
Analytical decision making: - Answer-- breaking down a larger problem into smaller more manageable
ones
- conducting a risk/benefit analysis may be your best option
- works best when research backs decision
Common pitfalls of analytical decision making: - Answer-- there may often be unknown variables we may
not recognize
- can be time consuming
- subconsciously biased
Expertise (intuition) decision making: - Answer-- draw upon previous experience to make decisions
- important to provide team with mission briefing explaining the problem and why specific strategy was
chosen
, Extreme ownership in leadership: - Answer-- never blame anyone else
- leaders ultimately responsible for the team and its actions
- if something goes wrong take accountability as the leader and figure out how to ensure it never
happens again
- requires effective communication, assigning roles, and trusting team to excel
Mission clarity: - Answer-- all members of the team support mission
- always communicate the "why"
- only 100% committed team members allowed
- only except the highest standards for your team
Check your ego: - Answer-- live and die as a team
- no place for ego or glory
Cover and move: - Answer-- rescues always uncertain
- mitigate risks and hazards to the best of your ability and trust in your team
- each teammate is an integral part
Keep things simple: - Answer-- simple = clarity and understanding
- complexity = confusion and doubt
Decentralized command: - Answer-- Delegating leadership to small teams to get the job done
- don't micro manage and have trust
Manage up and manage down: - Answer-- understand commands perspective, needs, and wants
- keep leader in the loop
Acute Bad Judgement Syndrome - Answer-Occurs when adventures don't truly understand the
consequences of their decisions
Take the time to do a reality check - Answer-Don't overestimate your groups ability, take the time to
observe all facts, clues, ability level, and skill set before making a "go or no go" decision
Maintain high situational awareness
Most common accidents in mountaineering: - Answer-1.) fall or slip on rock
2.) fall or slip on snow or ice
3.) falling rock, ice, or object
Most frequent contributing causes to accidents in mountaineering: - Answer-1.) climbing without ropes
2.) exceeding one's ability
3.) having an adequate equipment/clothing
4.) placing inadequate or no protection
5.) weather
Utilize checklists: - Answer-Reduces errors and omissions in:
- technical procedures, and medical procedures
,- deployment briefing's for permission profiles
- equipment checklist
Safety - Answer-Resounding theme of mountain rescue operations
+ personal safety = group safety
Minimizing risks: - Answer-- pre-plan as much as you can
- conduct trailhead safety briefing so everyone understands the mission/goal
- use redundant systems or systems with belay lines
- conduct frequent reality checks
- utilize safety checks with checklists
- don't rush through your rigging; do it right and do it perfectly
- train hard so you can rescue easily
Decision making: - Answer-3 main types: heuristics, analytical, expertise
- perfect decision making doesn't exist
Heuristics - Answer--mental shortcuts or "rules of thumb" that we employ to make decisions
Pitfalls of Heuristics: - Answer-1.) familiarity:
2.) acceptance:
3.) consistency/commitment
4.) expert halo
5.) track/scarcity
6.) social proof
,Common mountaineering heuristics: - Answer-- don't climb alone
- always wear a helmet
- climb within your ability level
- get good beta on the route before heading out
- leave detailed itinerary with a reliable person
- stick to your itinerary
- establish "go, or no go" conditions
- establish a safe turnaround time
- don't travel solo on glaciers
- use two ropes when training
- system should pass "whistle test"
Analytical decision making: - Answer-- breaking down a larger problem into smaller more manageable
ones
- conducting a risk/benefit analysis may be your best option
- works best when research backs decision
Common pitfalls of analytical decision making: - Answer-- there may often be unknown variables we may
not recognize
- can be time consuming
- subconsciously biased
Expertise (intuition) decision making: - Answer-- draw upon previous experience to make decisions
- important to provide team with mission briefing explaining the problem and why specific strategy was
chosen
, Extreme ownership in leadership: - Answer-- never blame anyone else
- leaders ultimately responsible for the team and its actions
- if something goes wrong take accountability as the leader and figure out how to ensure it never
happens again
- requires effective communication, assigning roles, and trusting team to excel
Mission clarity: - Answer-- all members of the team support mission
- always communicate the "why"
- only 100% committed team members allowed
- only except the highest standards for your team
Check your ego: - Answer-- live and die as a team
- no place for ego or glory
Cover and move: - Answer-- rescues always uncertain
- mitigate risks and hazards to the best of your ability and trust in your team
- each teammate is an integral part
Keep things simple: - Answer-- simple = clarity and understanding
- complexity = confusion and doubt
Decentralized command: - Answer-- Delegating leadership to small teams to get the job done
- don't micro manage and have trust
Manage up and manage down: - Answer-- understand commands perspective, needs, and wants
- keep leader in the loop
