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Inputs - ANSWER sediment can be brought into the system in various ways. Energy inputs come
from wind, waves, tides and currents.
Outputs - ANSWER e.g. sediment can be washed out to sea or deposited further along the
shore.
Flows/Transfers - ANSWER e.g. processes such as erosion, weathering, transportation and
deposition can move sediment within the system.
Stores/Components - ANSWER landforms such as beaches, dunes and spits
Negative Feedback - ANSWER when the effects of an action are cancelled out by its subsequent
knock-on effects.
Positive Feedback - ANSWER when the effects of an action are amplified or multiplied by
subsequent knock-on effects (a loop/cycle).
Sources of energy - ANSWER - Wind
- Wave
- Tidal
- Currents
Wave Energy - ANSWER - created by the frictional drag of the wind over the water.
,- effect of wave depends on height. height is determined by wind speed and fetch of the wind.
- waves break as they approach the shore. Friction with the sea bed slows the bottom of the
waves.
Size of wave depends on 3 factors:
- Distance wave has travelled
- Time wind has been blowing
- Strength of the wind
Wave height - ANSWER height difference between a wave crest and the neighbouring trough
Wavelength - ANSWER distance between successive crests
Wave frequency - ANSWER time between one crest and the following crest passing a fixed point
Constructive waves - ANSWER - swash greater then backwash
- weak backwash, low-energy deposition
- form beaches
- long, not very high max 1m
- frequency 6-9/minute
- form in calm conditions with light winds
- leads to formation of ridges (berms)
Destructive waves - ANSWER - backwash greater than swash
- remove material from the beach
, - erode the coastline
- 2-3m in height and steep
- frequency of 11-15/minute
- form in stormy conditions
- may form a ridge called a storm beach
Wave refraction - ANSWER Slowing and bending of progressive waves in shallow water.
Energy dissipates in deeper waters, waves are a lot smaller and don't slow down as much at the
deeper bays.
Energy of waves is concentrated at the headland, waves are bigger and erosion more likely in
this shallow water.
Wind energy - ANSWER - winds are created by air moving from areas of high pressure to areas
of low pressure. During events such as storms, the jump from one to the other is large.
- strong winds produce powerful waves.
Most coastlines will have a prevailing wind direction. The wind will generally reach the coast
from one direction.
This therefore controls:
1. the direction that waves approach.
2. the direction material is transported.
Prevailing wind - ANSWER the dominant wind direction in a particular location.