ACTUAL Exam Questions and CORRECT
Answers
period - CORRECT ANSWER - (T) is the time necessary for two adjacent crests/troughs
to pass a specific location and its typical units are m/s
frequency - CORRECT ANSWER - (F) is the inverse of period (1/T) and its units are
Hertz (Hz or periods during one second)
wavelength - CORRECT ANSWER - (L) is the horizontal distance between two adjacent
crests/troughs
refraction - CORRECT ANSWER - occurs when one segment of an intermediate or
shallow water wave encounters the shallower depths than other segments of the wave
longshore current - CORRECT ANSWER - majority of waves approach shoreline at an
angle and therefore show some amount of refraction. This will produce a net transport of water
parallel to the shoreline
littoral drift - CORRECT ANSWER - as waves collapse along the shore, there is a
transport of significant amounts of sediment along the beach
what happens to a wave as it enters shallower water - CORRECT ANSWER - segment
passing over the shallower waters will SLOW DOWN MORE than the other segments causing
adjacent segments in deeper water to refract/bend inwards towards slower wave segment
in spring (HIGH TIDE) what phase of moon is it - CORRECT ANSWER - Full moon or
new moon