Introduction to Earth Science Final
Exam-Questions and Answers Graded
A+
How does the coastline differ from the shoreline? - ANSWER-Shoreline: line that marks the contact
between land and sea (constantly moving)
Coastline: the coasts seaward edge; landward limit of the effect of the highest storm
What do tides result from? (what two bodies exert gravitational pulls on the Earth and its water) -
ANSWER-Tides result from the interaction of the moon and the sun, which exert gravitational pulls
on the Earth and its water
How do spring tides form? You should know where the sun and moon are relative to each other -
ANSWER-Spring tide: the highest tidal range, occurring near the times of the new and full moons
-Gravitational force of sun and moon are added
How do neap tides form? You should know where the sun and moon are relative to each other -
ANSWER-Neap tide: lowest tidal range, occurring near the times of the first and third quarters of the
moon
-Gravitational force of sun and moon are offset
Be able to recognize diagrams of diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tides - ANSWER-EXPLAIN diurnal,
semidiurnal, and mixed tides
Diurnal tidal pattern - ANSWER-A single high tide and a single low tide each day
Semidiurnal tidal pattern - ANSWER-Two high tides and two low tides each day
Mixed tidal pattern - ANSWER-Large inequality in high water heights, low water heights or both
Be able to correctly label a diagram of wave anatomy: - ANSWER-Crest: high point of a wave
Trough: low point of a wave
How to measure waves: - ANSWER--Wave height: distance between trough and crest
-Wave length: distance between crests
-Wave period: time interval between the passage of the two successive crests
Distance between trough and crest is - ANSWER-Wave height
distance between crests is - ANSWER-Wave length
time interval between the passage of the two successive crests is - ANSWER-Wave period
What four factors interact to determine the size of our waves? - ANSWER--Water depth
-Wind speed
-Length of time wind has blown
-Fetch (distance wind speed has traveled across open water)
,Oscillatory waves in the ocean are most similar to what kind of earthquake wave? - ANSWER-
Rayleigh waves
How do deep water waves move water (what is the shape of water orbits, and how deep, relative to
wavelength, are water particles moved)? - ANSWER--Movement of water particles decreases as
depth into the water increases
-Below half a wavelength in depth, there is little to no wave action
Deep water - ANSWER--Water particles move in circular orbit from surface to depth
Shallow water - ANSWER--Water particles move in circular orbit at surface
-Increasingly elliptical toward ocean floor
-When water depth is about half a wavelength, wave begins to "feel bottom"
-Sea floors drags on wave, so that wave crests move faster than water below
How do waves change as they move into shallow water (what happens to their orbits)? - ANSWER-
They become more elliptical as they get closer to the ocean floor
How do waves erode coastlines? - ANSWER-- *wave impact*
- *pressure*
- *abrasion by rock fragments*
What do shoreline features depend on? - ANSWER--Rockiness of shore
-Currents
-Wave intensity
-Whether coast is stable, sinking or rising
Know the various shoreline features - ANSWER--LTT
-Beaches
-The names for the different zones on the shore and coast
-Berms
-Dunes
-Etc.
Beach - ANSWER-waves act to accumulate local sediment along the landward margin of an ocean
or lake
Foreshore - ANSWER-area between low-tide low-water and high-tide high-water; most active are
and typically wet
Low-tide terrace (LTT) - ANSWER-relatively flat area exposed only during low tide; composed of
fine-grained sediment
Beach Face (BF) - ANSWER-wet, sloping surface, lapped by waves only during high tide; slope
depends on grain size and wave energy; typically composed of poorly sorted sediment
Backshore - ANSWER-area between high-tide shoreline and coastline, affected by storm waves and
atypical high tides
Berm - ANSWER-relatively flat platform composed of sand and marked by change in slope at
seaward edge
,Backbeach - ANSWER-area landward of berm, composed of generally fine-grained and well-sorted
sediment relative to beach face
Dunes - ANSWER-hill or ridge of wind-deposited sand; fine-grained relative to shore
Know the difference between an emergent and submergent coast. What sorts of features do we find
in each environment? You should be able to label diagrams for both of these (so sea stacks, sea
arches, estuaries, etc.). - ANSWER--Changes in the level of the sea relative to land has a major
impact on the form and features of the coast
-Relative sea level can change slowly or rapidly
Emergent coast - ANSWER-■falling sea level or a rising coast
■If coast rises or sea level drops, land once covered by sea emerges to form part of the landscape
■Waves erode surfaces; previously below water
■Wave erosion at sea level undercuts cliffs, leading to collapse of cliff face
■Over time, cliffs retreat while beach extends at base
Features of an emergent coast - ANSWER-●When erosion rates vary, undercutting may initially
produce sea caves
●When sea caves from opposite sides of a rocky headland meet, a sea arch may form
●Eventual weakening of the sea arch may result in its collapse to form a sea stack
Submergent coast - ANSWER-■rising sea level or sinking coast
■If sea level rises or coast subsides, land once exposed will be submerged by the sea
■River valleys are inundated by ocean water and become estuaries
■Hilly terrains become collected of islands
Features of a submergent coast - ANSWER-●Highly irregular shorelines
●Islands ("drowned" hills)
●Estuaries ("drowned" river mouths)
How much has sea level risen annually, on average, over the past 100 years? - ANSWER-Risen
about 1-2 mm/year
What is a longshore current? - ANSWER-- *Longshore currents* form when waves approach the
shoreline at an angle
-In areas where the shore curves inland, longshore currents tend to dissipate and *deposit sediment*
and form
what are the associated features of a long shore current? - ANSWER-barrier islands, spits,
tombolos, etc.
Sand bar - ANSWER-forms as deposits build out from the shore
*(ex. Baymouth Bar- sandbars that completely crosses a bay)*
Spit - ANSWER-forms from elongated ridges that extend from the shore
Tombolos - ANSWER-a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland
Barrier islands - ANSWER-low ridges of sand formed parallel to coast, typically 3-30 km offshore;
buffer mainland from storms and large waves
How do we attempt to control the coastline/shoreline? - ANSWER-jetties
, groins
seawalls
breakwalls
-building barriers
-replacing sand
-abandonment and relocation
Seawall - ANSWER-barrier constructed parallel to shore and close to beach to prevent waves from
reaching the land behind the wall; protects property from wave erosion
Breakwater - ANSWER-barrier build offshore and parallel to shore; protects nearshore area and
boats from force of large breaking waves
Groin - ANSWER-short wall built at a right angle to shore and close to beach to trap moving sand;
built to maintain or expand beaches
Jetties - ANSWER-pair of structures extending into the ocean at river or harbor entrance; built to
develop and maintain harbors against storm waves and sediment deposition
Beach nourishment - ANSWER-addition of large quantities of sand to the beach system; expensive
and must be repeated to maintain a beach
What are facies? - ANSWER-○different sediment types often accumulate adjacent to one another at
the same time
○each unit (facies) has a distinctive set of sedimentary features from that environment
November 3rd: Atmospheres and Oceans - ANSWER-
What gases primarily make up the atmosphere? - ANSWER-Nitrogen, Oxygen, Argon
How do we study the atmosphere and weather - ANSWER--Study composition, temperature and
others
what are some of the particular instruments that we use to study the atmosphere and weather? -
ANSWER-Measured by spacecraft, aircraft, satellites and weather balloons
Layers of atmosphere and temperature profiles - ANSWER-Troposphere (lowest)
Stratosphere
■Increasing temperature
■Ozone layer (O3)
Troposphere - ANSWER-■Lowest temp
■90% concentrated
■Decreasing temperature
■Decreasing pressure
What percentage of the Earth's surface is covered by deserts and steppes? - ANSWER-30% of land
surface
Desert - ANSWER-arid, driest of the dry climate zones
Steppe - ANSWER-●semi-arid, marginal zone bordering deserts
●Concentrated in Tropic of Cancer and Tropic of Capricorn
Exam-Questions and Answers Graded
A+
How does the coastline differ from the shoreline? - ANSWER-Shoreline: line that marks the contact
between land and sea (constantly moving)
Coastline: the coasts seaward edge; landward limit of the effect of the highest storm
What do tides result from? (what two bodies exert gravitational pulls on the Earth and its water) -
ANSWER-Tides result from the interaction of the moon and the sun, which exert gravitational pulls
on the Earth and its water
How do spring tides form? You should know where the sun and moon are relative to each other -
ANSWER-Spring tide: the highest tidal range, occurring near the times of the new and full moons
-Gravitational force of sun and moon are added
How do neap tides form? You should know where the sun and moon are relative to each other -
ANSWER-Neap tide: lowest tidal range, occurring near the times of the first and third quarters of the
moon
-Gravitational force of sun and moon are offset
Be able to recognize diagrams of diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed tides - ANSWER-EXPLAIN diurnal,
semidiurnal, and mixed tides
Diurnal tidal pattern - ANSWER-A single high tide and a single low tide each day
Semidiurnal tidal pattern - ANSWER-Two high tides and two low tides each day
Mixed tidal pattern - ANSWER-Large inequality in high water heights, low water heights or both
Be able to correctly label a diagram of wave anatomy: - ANSWER-Crest: high point of a wave
Trough: low point of a wave
How to measure waves: - ANSWER--Wave height: distance between trough and crest
-Wave length: distance between crests
-Wave period: time interval between the passage of the two successive crests
Distance between trough and crest is - ANSWER-Wave height
distance between crests is - ANSWER-Wave length
time interval between the passage of the two successive crests is - ANSWER-Wave period
What four factors interact to determine the size of our waves? - ANSWER--Water depth
-Wind speed
-Length of time wind has blown
-Fetch (distance wind speed has traveled across open water)
,Oscillatory waves in the ocean are most similar to what kind of earthquake wave? - ANSWER-
Rayleigh waves
How do deep water waves move water (what is the shape of water orbits, and how deep, relative to
wavelength, are water particles moved)? - ANSWER--Movement of water particles decreases as
depth into the water increases
-Below half a wavelength in depth, there is little to no wave action
Deep water - ANSWER--Water particles move in circular orbit from surface to depth
Shallow water - ANSWER--Water particles move in circular orbit at surface
-Increasingly elliptical toward ocean floor
-When water depth is about half a wavelength, wave begins to "feel bottom"
-Sea floors drags on wave, so that wave crests move faster than water below
How do waves change as they move into shallow water (what happens to their orbits)? - ANSWER-
They become more elliptical as they get closer to the ocean floor
How do waves erode coastlines? - ANSWER-- *wave impact*
- *pressure*
- *abrasion by rock fragments*
What do shoreline features depend on? - ANSWER--Rockiness of shore
-Currents
-Wave intensity
-Whether coast is stable, sinking or rising
Know the various shoreline features - ANSWER--LTT
-Beaches
-The names for the different zones on the shore and coast
-Berms
-Dunes
-Etc.
Beach - ANSWER-waves act to accumulate local sediment along the landward margin of an ocean
or lake
Foreshore - ANSWER-area between low-tide low-water and high-tide high-water; most active are
and typically wet
Low-tide terrace (LTT) - ANSWER-relatively flat area exposed only during low tide; composed of
fine-grained sediment
Beach Face (BF) - ANSWER-wet, sloping surface, lapped by waves only during high tide; slope
depends on grain size and wave energy; typically composed of poorly sorted sediment
Backshore - ANSWER-area between high-tide shoreline and coastline, affected by storm waves and
atypical high tides
Berm - ANSWER-relatively flat platform composed of sand and marked by change in slope at
seaward edge
,Backbeach - ANSWER-area landward of berm, composed of generally fine-grained and well-sorted
sediment relative to beach face
Dunes - ANSWER-hill or ridge of wind-deposited sand; fine-grained relative to shore
Know the difference between an emergent and submergent coast. What sorts of features do we find
in each environment? You should be able to label diagrams for both of these (so sea stacks, sea
arches, estuaries, etc.). - ANSWER--Changes in the level of the sea relative to land has a major
impact on the form and features of the coast
-Relative sea level can change slowly or rapidly
Emergent coast - ANSWER-■falling sea level or a rising coast
■If coast rises or sea level drops, land once covered by sea emerges to form part of the landscape
■Waves erode surfaces; previously below water
■Wave erosion at sea level undercuts cliffs, leading to collapse of cliff face
■Over time, cliffs retreat while beach extends at base
Features of an emergent coast - ANSWER-●When erosion rates vary, undercutting may initially
produce sea caves
●When sea caves from opposite sides of a rocky headland meet, a sea arch may form
●Eventual weakening of the sea arch may result in its collapse to form a sea stack
Submergent coast - ANSWER-■rising sea level or sinking coast
■If sea level rises or coast subsides, land once exposed will be submerged by the sea
■River valleys are inundated by ocean water and become estuaries
■Hilly terrains become collected of islands
Features of a submergent coast - ANSWER-●Highly irregular shorelines
●Islands ("drowned" hills)
●Estuaries ("drowned" river mouths)
How much has sea level risen annually, on average, over the past 100 years? - ANSWER-Risen
about 1-2 mm/year
What is a longshore current? - ANSWER-- *Longshore currents* form when waves approach the
shoreline at an angle
-In areas where the shore curves inland, longshore currents tend to dissipate and *deposit sediment*
and form
what are the associated features of a long shore current? - ANSWER-barrier islands, spits,
tombolos, etc.
Sand bar - ANSWER-forms as deposits build out from the shore
*(ex. Baymouth Bar- sandbars that completely crosses a bay)*
Spit - ANSWER-forms from elongated ridges that extend from the shore
Tombolos - ANSWER-a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland
Barrier islands - ANSWER-low ridges of sand formed parallel to coast, typically 3-30 km offshore;
buffer mainland from storms and large waves
How do we attempt to control the coastline/shoreline? - ANSWER-jetties
, groins
seawalls
breakwalls
-building barriers
-replacing sand
-abandonment and relocation
Seawall - ANSWER-barrier constructed parallel to shore and close to beach to prevent waves from
reaching the land behind the wall; protects property from wave erosion
Breakwater - ANSWER-barrier build offshore and parallel to shore; protects nearshore area and
boats from force of large breaking waves
Groin - ANSWER-short wall built at a right angle to shore and close to beach to trap moving sand;
built to maintain or expand beaches
Jetties - ANSWER-pair of structures extending into the ocean at river or harbor entrance; built to
develop and maintain harbors against storm waves and sediment deposition
Beach nourishment - ANSWER-addition of large quantities of sand to the beach system; expensive
and must be repeated to maintain a beach
What are facies? - ANSWER-○different sediment types often accumulate adjacent to one another at
the same time
○each unit (facies) has a distinctive set of sedimentary features from that environment
November 3rd: Atmospheres and Oceans - ANSWER-
What gases primarily make up the atmosphere? - ANSWER-Nitrogen, Oxygen, Argon
How do we study the atmosphere and weather - ANSWER--Study composition, temperature and
others
what are some of the particular instruments that we use to study the atmosphere and weather? -
ANSWER-Measured by spacecraft, aircraft, satellites and weather balloons
Layers of atmosphere and temperature profiles - ANSWER-Troposphere (lowest)
Stratosphere
■Increasing temperature
■Ozone layer (O3)
Troposphere - ANSWER-■Lowest temp
■90% concentrated
■Decreasing temperature
■Decreasing pressure
What percentage of the Earth's surface is covered by deserts and steppes? - ANSWER-30% of land
surface
Desert - ANSWER-arid, driest of the dry climate zones
Steppe - ANSWER-●semi-arid, marginal zone bordering deserts
●Concentrated in Tropic of Cancer and Tropic of Capricorn
