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Off-base 45-degree below center of the base,tool sits completely off bottom parting,least
volume and least base
Underdirected 90 degrees from center of base. tool sits in lower portion of base but not on
o below parting. reduce volume / base strength.
Overdirected 45 degrees above center of base. tool sits in upper portion of base but not on
or above the parting. Exaggerated direction / volume reduced base strength
Straight indentation Creates areas of hollowness or depression, base and strand are flat,
ends turn upward.
Air forming volume and indentation Brush positioned underneath the hair strands
Concave curved inward (open)
, Convex curved outward (closed)
Hydrogen bonds Physical side bond (cross bond) easily broken by water or heat; reforms
when hair cools and/or dries
Air forming Also called blow drying
Marcel waves Alternating wave pattern along hairstrand
Ends-to-base Stronger end curl progressing to a weaker base
Ends ( curl iron technique) Curved under or bevel-up effect
Spiral (iron technique Elongated curls or a corkscrew
Scale Carve out shapes in the proper size and proportion to establish the lines of design.
Finger waves 'C' shapes placed into the hair in alternating directions using the fingers and
a comb