EXAM 2025-2025 | ACTUAL EXAM WITH A STUDY GUIDE AND
PRACTICE EXAM | ACCURATE REAL EXAM QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
| GUARANTEED PASS | LATEST UPDATE
Setting up radium release hitch: - CORRECT ANSWER 1.) set up:
- attach radium release hitch to the master point in anchor carabiner
with munters hitch
- attach prussic cord to the carabiner on the loadside of the radium
release hitch
2.) transferring the load:
- call for a stop when the V- not is about 16 -24 away from your DCD
- Lock device
- attach three wrap prussic from radium release system to mainline
- prussic dressed and tight; no slack
- double check everything is locked
-unlock the MPD and slowly lower load onto prussic/radium release
system
3.) Pass the knot
- lower the load until the entire weight of the load is now on the radio
release system
- Open your DCD and move knot from break side to load side
- ensure the MPD is loaded properly and lock off the DCD
- The knot is now passed and transfer load wt release hitch back on
DCD
4.) transfer the load back to the MPD:
- confirm MPD parking break is set
- untied the overhand safety knot on radium release hitch
-pop the half hitch safety knot on radium release so you can now feed
rope through the Munter hitch or radium release
-Feed enough rope through munter hitch until all of the way of the
load is now back on the MPD
,- finally you can now take off the Prussic Hitch, reset the radium
release hitch and resume lower when ready
Converting a fixed line to a lowering line: - CORRECT ANSWER -
use a 2:1 MAS (a hasty haul), transfer the weight of the load off the
anchor know and then, Tie a munter mule overhand knot where the
anchor was
Vertical picket placement: - CORRECT ANSWER - angle picket
back 10° from perpendicular to maximize stress control
- no upward pull on vertical pickets
- mid clips pull more equally on anchors than top clips
- mid clips need snow to be soft enough to cut away trench for sling
- mid clip attachment cable or sling should be two times the length of
the picket
- Snow needs to be hard for this application to work properly, you
should have hammer or stomp 8+ times
Vertical picket in weak snow: - CORRECT ANSWER - angle
pickett back 15 to 45° to maximize the snow the picket must plow
through
- mid clip attachment cable or sling should be two times the length of
the picket no upward pull or vertical pickets
Dead Man or T slot in weak snow: - CORRECT ANSWER -
horizontal burials tend to be stronger than vertical picket burials
- The greater the surface area of picket the stronger than anchor
How to set up dead man or T slot: - CORRECT ANSWER 1. Dig a
trench perpendicular to your load, to bury your picket or dead man
2. Dig deep as practical, the more snow the pick it has to move
through the better
3. Attach sling to the midpoint of the picket or dead men
,4. Trench a narrow slot for anchor sling
Snow flukes: - CORRECT ANSWER - a small aluminum plate that
can be buried in snow as an anchor
- difficult to place an only reliable in certain circumstances, usually
- limitations
Snow bollards: - CORRECT ANSWER - A teardrop shaped mound
of snow dug out from the snow
- The stronger the snow pack and larger the bollard the stronger it
will be
- maybe 10kn strong
- range from 1 foot or two of ice to 10 feet of snow
Firm, hard snow: - CORRECT ANSWER Best anchors:
- Vertical pickets with top or mid clips
Methods of failure:
- Will occur in weakest part of snow anchor itself, clipping point,
cable, metal
- (~7-10kn) depending on clip point
What anchors to use in weak snow that cannot be compressed: -
CORRECT ANSWER - your typical cold, weak, continental snow
pack or very wet snow
Best anchors: t-slot deadman; like Buried skiis
Method of failure: in week snow, compression failure is the main
failure, anchor pulls forward through snow
Ice Anchors: - CORRECT ANSWER - Abalakov (V-thread)
anchors are the preferred anchor for repels on steep ice Falls
- in good ice they should handle 1-2kn loads for repel or belay
, - in some testing they held 20kn
- built by drilling long screws into ice to form intersecting tunnels
that you thread with webbing or cord
- Angls should be about 60° can back up with an ice screw
- more ice equals strongler anchor
Ice screws: - CORRECT ANSWER - provide quick, strong, secure
anchors in bombproof ice
- strength ranges from 5 to 20kn depending on quality of ice
- good to carry screws for emergencies
- Real world testing shows forces over 10kn cause failures
Important concepts for ice anchors: - CORRECT ANSWER - an Ice
screw anchor is only as good as the ice
- good ice, slightly angled 15° you're screwed towards anticipated load
- in bad ice, angle screws away from the anticipated load
- spread screws out at least 2 feet in some recommend vertical anchor
orientation as strongest
- pre-equalize anchors
Ice Bollard: - CORRECT ANSWER - primarily used for a repel
anchor
- should not see more than 1-2kn force
- take time to build
- common technique is to back up with an ice screw
Ice Axes: - CORRECT ANSWER - if you're lacking screws; use as
sub optimal Anchor
Ice anchor belays and repel anchors should: - CORRECT ANSWER
- be placed in solid, secure ice
- be placed in hollows or recesses versus bulges
- have safe, secure stance for the belay