PSI Cosmetology Theory Exam

Soft Water/ Rain water - Best for shampooing and allows shampoo to lather freely Hard Water - Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather Purified water/Deionized water - Main ingredient in shampoo Surfactant - has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL Hydrophilic Head - Attracted to water Lipophilic Tail - Attracted to dirts and oils Acid Balanced Shampoo - pH of 4.5-5.5 Jheri Redding - first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s Clarifying Shampoo - acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand Humectants - Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture Instant conditioners - remain on the hair 1-5 minutes Protein Conditoners - brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to temporarily improve porosity and increase elasticity Infraed Lamps - may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5 minutes High Frequency Unit - used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also never should be used with tonics that contain alcohol Base Control - position of the rod in relation to its base section croquignole perm wrap - wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with the ends Spiral Perm Wrap - Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical Concave Rods - most common and have a smaller center circumference Straight Rods - uniform circumference Alkaline Permanent - softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle. Developed in 1941 Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) - main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) - process at room temp Acid Perms - Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) Exothermic perms - reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide Endothermic Perms - activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms are endothermic Disulfide Bonds - if too many are broken the hair will become over processed and have a weak curl What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer - Hydrogen Peroxide Do not shampoo hair - 48 hours after a perm Cuticle - outer most layer of the hair Cortex - middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place Melanin - Natural pigment located in the cortex Peptide Bonds - called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains. Should not be broken. What are the three side bonds? - Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross Disulfide Bonds - strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the hair Salt bonds - Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes in pH Hydrogen Bonds - broken by water or heat EX: Wet Set Hair Texture - Diameter of a single strand Hair Density - number of strands of hair are on the head Hair Porosity - Absorb mositure Hair Elasticity - strength of the side bonds. Wet hair stretches 50% of its original length then returns to its former length without breaking Chemical Hair Relaxing - the process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form