Name:
Address:
Date:
Appliance type: ideal logic + combi boiler 30 kw
Meter: G4
Fault find 1
At approximately 9:00 am I received a call from a customer stating that he was
seeing water leak from the bottom of his ideal logic + combi boiler, and he was
scared that something might be wrong with the appliance. Instantly I started to
diagnose the problem before I got to the property as I knew that in most cases
where water is leaking from the boiler there is a complication with the PRV or the
condensation trap.
When I arrived at the property, I saw for myself that the boiler was leaking so I
carried out a visual inspection before starting any work. This is important to start
off with, checking for interference or damage to the appliance that may affect
the efficiency of my work, like a loose bracket that could make the current meter
on the wall unstable. I started my visual inspection at the top of the meter by
making sure that the Emergency Control Valve (ECV) falls to the OFF position
and that there is a label indicating what position means the ECV is on or off.
Gradually I worked my way down the meter analysing that the
pipework/anaconda is in good condition (no paint or dents/holes), the brackets
holding the meter are secure and that the tamper seal has not been tampered
with and is sitting correctly on the regulator. On the meter itself or close around
it there should also be the Emergency Service Providers (ESP) number (0800 111
999) for the customers use. When I finished my inspection and was certain that I
checked everything correctly, I moved on to the tightness test. Prior to starting
the tightness test I made sure that the U-gauge I was using was in good working
condition and that the water inside of it was level to zero-zero millibar. I
performed this tightness test to make sure that the installation that was done
before is safe. The first test that I performed on the meter was the let–by test, to
ensure that there is no gas that can pass through the valve when it is turned off,
so I isolated all appliances starting farthest from the meter. I removed the screw
from the test point and replaced it with the tube from the U-gauge. I then put the
ECV to the on position, to make pressure, so that the reading within the U-gauge
was at 10 mb (millibar) and then timed it to run for 1 minute. Once I was fulfilled
with my let-by test that proved no gas was passing through when the ECV was in
the off position I moved on to conducting my temperature stabilisation.
Temperature stabilisation is done to allow the water and gas in the U-gauge to
equalise in temperature so the reading from the tightness test will be accurate.
With the tube still attached to the test point I made sure that the reading on the
U-gauge was back on its original position (zero-zero millibar). I Then turned the
ECV to the on position to allow the pressure to let the water rise to 20 mb,
subsequently timing it for 1 minute. When I was done with my temperature
stabilisation and content that my results were adequate, I moved on to the
tightness test. The tightness test is implemented to test the entire installation
(all pipework and appliances downstream of the meter) for gas escapes. Firstly, I
Address:
Date:
Appliance type: ideal logic + combi boiler 30 kw
Meter: G4
Fault find 1
At approximately 9:00 am I received a call from a customer stating that he was
seeing water leak from the bottom of his ideal logic + combi boiler, and he was
scared that something might be wrong with the appliance. Instantly I started to
diagnose the problem before I got to the property as I knew that in most cases
where water is leaking from the boiler there is a complication with the PRV or the
condensation trap.
When I arrived at the property, I saw for myself that the boiler was leaking so I
carried out a visual inspection before starting any work. This is important to start
off with, checking for interference or damage to the appliance that may affect
the efficiency of my work, like a loose bracket that could make the current meter
on the wall unstable. I started my visual inspection at the top of the meter by
making sure that the Emergency Control Valve (ECV) falls to the OFF position
and that there is a label indicating what position means the ECV is on or off.
Gradually I worked my way down the meter analysing that the
pipework/anaconda is in good condition (no paint or dents/holes), the brackets
holding the meter are secure and that the tamper seal has not been tampered
with and is sitting correctly on the regulator. On the meter itself or close around
it there should also be the Emergency Service Providers (ESP) number (0800 111
999) for the customers use. When I finished my inspection and was certain that I
checked everything correctly, I moved on to the tightness test. Prior to starting
the tightness test I made sure that the U-gauge I was using was in good working
condition and that the water inside of it was level to zero-zero millibar. I
performed this tightness test to make sure that the installation that was done
before is safe. The first test that I performed on the meter was the let–by test, to
ensure that there is no gas that can pass through the valve when it is turned off,
so I isolated all appliances starting farthest from the meter. I removed the screw
from the test point and replaced it with the tube from the U-gauge. I then put the
ECV to the on position, to make pressure, so that the reading within the U-gauge
was at 10 mb (millibar) and then timed it to run for 1 minute. Once I was fulfilled
with my let-by test that proved no gas was passing through when the ECV was in
the off position I moved on to conducting my temperature stabilisation.
Temperature stabilisation is done to allow the water and gas in the U-gauge to
equalise in temperature so the reading from the tightness test will be accurate.
With the tube still attached to the test point I made sure that the reading on the
U-gauge was back on its original position (zero-zero millibar). I Then turned the
ECV to the on position to allow the pressure to let the water rise to 20 mb,
subsequently timing it for 1 minute. When I was done with my temperature
stabilisation and content that my results were adequate, I moved on to the
tightness test. The tightness test is implemented to test the entire installation
(all pipework and appliances downstream of the meter) for gas escapes. Firstly, I
