LECTURE NOTES I p p
N
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
p
ODD HENRIK SÆLEN EY
p p p
VIND AAS
p
1976
2012
,
, CONTENTS
FOREWORD INTRODUCTIO
p
N
1 EXTENT OF THE OCEANS AND THEIR DIVISIONS
p p p p p p
1.1 DistributionpofpWaterpandpLand .......................................................................... 1
1.2 DepthpMeasurements ............................................................................................3
1.3 GeneralpFeaturespofpthepOceanpFloor ..................................................................5
2 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SEAWATER
p p p
2.1 ChemicalpComposition.......................................................................................... 1
2.2 GasespinpSeawater ................................................................................................. 4
3 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SEAWATER
p p p
3.1 DensitypandpFreezingpPoint .................................................................................. 1
3.2 Temperature .......................................................................................................... 3
3.3 Compressibility...................................................................................................... 5
3.4 SpecificpandpLatentpHeats..................................................................................... 5
3.5 LightpinpthepSea...................................................................................................... 6
3.6 SoundpinpthepSea ..................................................................................................11
4 INFLUENCE OF ATMOSPHERE ON THE SEA
p p p p p
4.1 MajorpWindpandpPressurepSystems .....................................................................1
4.2 HeatpBudget ...........................................................................................................2
4.3 VolumepBudget ......................................................................................................6
4.4 SaltpBudget ............................................................................................................ 6
5 GLOBAL DISTRIBUTION OF T, S AND ρ
p p p p p p
5.1 TemperaturepDistribution ....................................................................................1
5.2 SalinitypDistribution.............................................................................................. 4
5.3 DensitypDistribution .............................................................................................. 4
i
, 6 EQUATIONS AND MODELS FOR MOTION IN THE SEA
p p p p p p p
6.1 TransformationpofpNewton'spSecondpLaw ........................................................... 1
6.2 HydrostaticpEquilibrium ...................................................................................... 4
6.3 GeostrophicpCurrents .......................................................................................... 6
6.3 WindpCurrents ...................................................................................................... 7
7 CIRCULATION OF THE OCEANS p p p
7.1 OceanicpGyresp(pAtlanticpOcean,pPacificpOcean,pIndianpOcean) ............................................ 1
7.2 SurfacepCurrentspinpOtherpAreasp(SouthernpOcean,p MediterraneanpSea,pNorwegianpSe
a,pBalticpSea,pNorwegianpCoastalpCurrent,pNorthpSea,pBarentspSea,pArcticpSea) ............................ 8
7.3 Upwelling ............................................................................................................. 22
7.4 VerticalpCirculation ............................................................................................ 24
8 WAVES
8.1 GenerationpofpWaves ............................................................................................ 1
8.2 WavepTheory ......................................................................................................... 2
8.3 WavepObservations .............................................................................................. 6
8.4 InternalpWaves ..................................................................................................... 6
9 TIDES
9.1 TidalpForce ............................................................................................................ 1
9.2 EquilibriumpTheory ..............................................................................................2
9.3 PresentationpofpObservedpTides ........................................................................... 6
9.4 TidalpTypes ............................................................................................................ 8
9.5 TidalpCurrents ....................................................................................................... 9
10 FJORDS AND ESTUARIES
p p
10.1 CharacteristicspofpEstuariespandpFjords............................................................ 1
10.2 SeasonalpChanges ............................................................................................... 1
10.3 EstuarinepCirculation ........................................................................................ 2
10.4 DeeperpLayerspinpthepFjord ............................................................................... 5
11 ICE IN THE SEA
p p p
References
ii
N
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
p
ODD HENRIK SÆLEN EY
p p p
VIND AAS
p
1976
2012
,
, CONTENTS
FOREWORD INTRODUCTIO
p
N
1 EXTENT OF THE OCEANS AND THEIR DIVISIONS
p p p p p p
1.1 DistributionpofpWaterpandpLand .......................................................................... 1
1.2 DepthpMeasurements ............................................................................................3
1.3 GeneralpFeaturespofpthepOceanpFloor ..................................................................5
2 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SEAWATER
p p p
2.1 ChemicalpComposition.......................................................................................... 1
2.2 GasespinpSeawater ................................................................................................. 4
3 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SEAWATER
p p p
3.1 DensitypandpFreezingpPoint .................................................................................. 1
3.2 Temperature .......................................................................................................... 3
3.3 Compressibility...................................................................................................... 5
3.4 SpecificpandpLatentpHeats..................................................................................... 5
3.5 LightpinpthepSea...................................................................................................... 6
3.6 SoundpinpthepSea ..................................................................................................11
4 INFLUENCE OF ATMOSPHERE ON THE SEA
p p p p p
4.1 MajorpWindpandpPressurepSystems .....................................................................1
4.2 HeatpBudget ...........................................................................................................2
4.3 VolumepBudget ......................................................................................................6
4.4 SaltpBudget ............................................................................................................ 6
5 GLOBAL DISTRIBUTION OF T, S AND ρ
p p p p p p
5.1 TemperaturepDistribution ....................................................................................1
5.2 SalinitypDistribution.............................................................................................. 4
5.3 DensitypDistribution .............................................................................................. 4
i
, 6 EQUATIONS AND MODELS FOR MOTION IN THE SEA
p p p p p p p
6.1 TransformationpofpNewton'spSecondpLaw ........................................................... 1
6.2 HydrostaticpEquilibrium ...................................................................................... 4
6.3 GeostrophicpCurrents .......................................................................................... 6
6.3 WindpCurrents ...................................................................................................... 7
7 CIRCULATION OF THE OCEANS p p p
7.1 OceanicpGyresp(pAtlanticpOcean,pPacificpOcean,pIndianpOcean) ............................................ 1
7.2 SurfacepCurrentspinpOtherpAreasp(SouthernpOcean,p MediterraneanpSea,pNorwegianpSe
a,pBalticpSea,pNorwegianpCoastalpCurrent,pNorthpSea,pBarentspSea,pArcticpSea) ............................ 8
7.3 Upwelling ............................................................................................................. 22
7.4 VerticalpCirculation ............................................................................................ 24
8 WAVES
8.1 GenerationpofpWaves ............................................................................................ 1
8.2 WavepTheory ......................................................................................................... 2
8.3 WavepObservations .............................................................................................. 6
8.4 InternalpWaves ..................................................................................................... 6
9 TIDES
9.1 TidalpForce ............................................................................................................ 1
9.2 EquilibriumpTheory ..............................................................................................2
9.3 PresentationpofpObservedpTides ........................................................................... 6
9.4 TidalpTypes ............................................................................................................ 8
9.5 TidalpCurrents ....................................................................................................... 9
10 FJORDS AND ESTUARIES
p p
10.1 CharacteristicspofpEstuariespandpFjords............................................................ 1
10.2 SeasonalpChanges ............................................................................................... 1
10.3 EstuarinepCirculation ........................................................................................ 2
10.4 DeeperpLayerspinpthepFjord ............................................................................... 5
11 ICE IN THE SEA
p p p
References
ii
