CHAPTER 13 ~ SKIN CARE PRODUCTS: CHEMISTRY, INGREDIENTS, AND SELECTION VERIFIED ANSWERS

Why should Estheticians have a thorough understanding of skin care products? - correct answerSo they can provide clients with the appropriate treatment choices and products to maintain healthy beautiful skin Cosmetic act of 1938, drugs and cosmetics - correct answerThe FDA views cosmetics according to the _____which distinguishes between _____and_____. ____are defined by the FDA as "articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attratciveness or alternating the appearance" - correct answerCosmetics ____allow products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream or gel. - correct answerFunctional Ingredients _____cause the actual changes in the appearance of skin. - correct answerPerformance Ingredients ____are a proposed third category; they are intended to improve the skin's health and appearance. - correct answerCosmecuticals Ingredients can be derived from____ - correct answerplants, vitamins and animals _____describes ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions. - correct answerHypoallergenic ___describes ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones. - correct answerNoncomedogenic ____is the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient. - correct answerwater As a performance ingredient, water______ - correct answerreplenishes moisture in the surface of the skin. products that do not contain any water are called - correct answeranhydrous fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the face are called - correct answerEmollients slip evenly across and adhere to the skin. - correct answeremollients in loose powder help the powder to As performance drugs___lubricate the skin's surface and set up a guard for the barrier functions - correct answerEmollients mineral oil and petrolatum come from the____ - correct answerearth plant oils contain____which are beneficial for the skin that does not produce enough sebum - correct answerfatty acids _____are lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats - correct answerfatty acids when fatty acids have been exposed to hydrogen, they become __ - correct answerfatty alcohol ____are produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols. - correct answerFatty esters dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and phenyl trimethicone are examples of _____ - correct answersilicones comedogenicity is the tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a_______________ - correct answera buildup of dean skin cells in the follicle which category of ingredients reduces the surface tension between the skin and the product? - correct answersurfactants the main type of surfactant used in cleansing agents is___ - correct answerdetergents _____is the therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes. - correct answerAromatherapy ____prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product - correct answerpreservatives a______ is added to products to improve the efficiency of a preservative. - correct answerchelating agent the____ regulates color agent ingredients - correct answerFDA D&C or FD&C - correct answercertified colors are listed on ingredient labels as______ insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material are_____ - correct answerLakes exfoliation can be achieved through _______actions - correct answerchemical & mechanical ______physically scrape dead cells from the skin's surface - correct answermechanical exfoliation ingredients alpha hydroxy acids are used to ____exfoliate the skin - correct answerchemically papain, bromelain, and pancreatin are all ____that gently exfoliate the skin - correct answerenzymes _____and _____are ingredients used in the bleaching or lightening of the skin. - correct answerlighteners, brighteners _____converts tyrosine into melanin - correct answertyrosinase ______deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis - correct answerdelivery systems water and emollients are_____that carry other ingredients into the skin. - correct answervehicles what are liposomes? what are their purpose? - correct answerclosed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients target their delivery to specific areas of the skin and control their release which delivery system releases substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate - correct answerpolymers what is the proper name for microsponges - correct answerpolymers vitamins C and E, green tea and DMAE are ______ - correct answerantioxidents polyglucans are _______;they help preserve and protect collagen and elastin. - correct answerHydrophilic beta-glucans help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by _____&_______ - correct answerstimulating & forming collagen _____is derived from yeast cells and functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient - correct answerTRF- tissue respirtory factor glycoproteins are derived from___ - correct answeryeast ____are chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the appearance of skin - correct answerpeptides _____is a natural form of Vitamin A - correct answerRetinol retinoic acid is a form of vitamin A that is of the keratolytic group. what does this mean? - correct answercauses sloughing and exfoliating of skin cells vitamins C and E, alphalipoic acid, idebenone, and coenzyme Q-10 are all_____ - correct answerantioxidents there are two types of sunscreen ingredients - correct answerchemical and organic chemical sunscreens chemically ____ultraviolet rays - correct answerabsorb the FDA regulates cosmetics in terms of ___,____,and ______ - correct answersafety, labeling and claims made for the product cosmetic ingredients are listed in ______order of predominance, starting with the ingredient that has the ____concentration. - correct answerdescending, highest what should you do after applying a product if the skin becomes excessively red or the client complains of burning? - correct answerremove product and rinse the skin with cold water before treatment, it is a good idea to _____any client who has reactive skin - correct answerpatch test aromatherapy is an _____ healing practice - correct answerNatural aromatherapy treats the ___,____,and____ - correct answermind, body and spirit _____is the use of plant extracts for the theraputic benefits - correct answerphytopherapy _______are the main focus of the skin care industry - correct answerAnti aging products and treatments ______neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals. - correct answerantioxidents white blood cells & immune system. collagen - correct answervitamin C strenghten the _____&_____and is essential for producing_______ dimethylaminoethanol is commonly called_____ - correct answerDMAE vitamins A and E protect the _______ - correct answerphospholipid structure of the cell membrane alkaline and acid bases that adjust the PH of products - correct answerPH adjusters ingredients derived from plants that benefit the skin - correct answerbotanicals/phytotherapy also know as humectants - correct answerhydrators substances such as water that are used to dissolve other ingredients - correct answersolvents explain how alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids work - correct answerchemical exfolients loosen the bond between cells and epidermis. how do enzymes exfoliate the skin - correct answerDissolve keratin proteins on surface of skin to make it softer and smoother and help maintain the hydration level of epidermis list some of the common lightening agents - correct answerhydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, licorice root,bearberry, green tea extract, AHA and BHA what are three types of ingredient delivery systems - correct answervehicle, liposomes & polymers how do beta-glucans and polyglucans benefit the skin - correct answerenhance the skins defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism. how do antioxidants help the skin - correct answerneutralize the damaging effects of free radicals and help the skin cope with the damaging effects of environmental influences describe a free radical - correct answeraggressive unstable oxygen-containing molecules as an antioxident, what is the benefit of Vitamin C - correct answerstrengthens the white blood cells and immune system and produces collagen what is the benefit of alpha lipoic acid - correct answeranti inflammatory and reduces redness. increases cellular metabolism and the effects of other antioxidents fortifies the skins immune function and activates metabolic function. often results in visible reduction of wrinkles and fine lines - correct answerwhat is the benefit of CoQ10 what are the types of organic chemical sunscreens - correct answeroctinoxate, octisalate, oxybenzone what are two types of inorganic physical sunscreens - correct answertitanium, dioxide, zinc oxide occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding water;used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing - correct answerpetroleum jelly antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions and astringents - correct answeralcohol glycolipid materials that are a natural part of skin's intercellular matrix and barrier function - correct answerceramides properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances and anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface and helps maintain healthy skin - correct answerurea emollient with moisturizing properties;also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities - correct answerlanolin chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen and improve the skin's firmness; larger chains are called polypeptides - correct answerpeptides one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic - correct answermethylparaben fibrous, connective tissue made from protein; found in the reticular layer of the dermis; gives the skin its firmness;topically, a large, long chain molecular protein that lies on top of the skin and binds water; derived from the placentas of cows or other sources - correct answercollagen lubricant derived from petroleum - correct answermineral oil a humectant often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers - correct answerpropylene glycol originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil,and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum; a lubricant and perfume fixative - correct answersqualene drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne - correct answerbenzoyl peroxide hydrating fluids found in the skin; hydrophilic agent with water-binding properties - correct answerhyaluronic acid beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties;natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark and wintergreen - correct answersalicylic acid list TEN ingredients that have proven to have a positive effect on mature skin and rosacea - correct answergreen tea, licorice root,squalane(vegetable oil from green olives) seaweed, chamomile, micronized vitamin E, panthenol-vitamin B5, allantoin, guarana (anti-inflammatory & decongestant) rose essential oil name the main categories in skin care products - correct answercleansers, exfoliants, hydrators & moisturizers, sunscreens, toners, masks, serums & ampoules PH - correct answercleansers should leave the skin _____ balanced cleansers_____makeup and dirt to keep_____clean and____for other treatments - correct answerdissolve, pores, prepare skin what are three basic forms of cleansers - correct answercleansing gel, cleansing lotion, cleansing cream what is purpose of cleansing gel - correct answerdissolves more oil what is the most important caution to consider when recommending a cleansing gel - correct answerthey can dry out the skin describe a cleansing lotion - correct answerwater based emulsion for normal or combo skin milky cleansing lotions are used by which skin type - correct answerDry describe the purposes of a cleansing cream - correct answerdissolve make up and dirt suitable for dry and mature skin are make up removers generally oil-based or water-based - correct answeroil based ____usually have a higher alcohol content and are designed for use on normal and combination skin - correct answertoners _____have the highest alcohol content and are used for oily and acne-prone skin - correct answerastringents texture is smoother and softer cle openings are cleaner pore cleansing & extractions are easier turnover rate is increased bringing new cells to the surface more rapidly 5. skins ability to retain moisture & lipids are improved 6. product penetration is improved,delivery of ingredients into epidermis is more effective flow and circulation are stimulated up application is smoother and more even - correct answerlist EIGHT benefits of exfoliating the skin list the skin conditions that benefit from exfoliation - correct answera. oily, clogged skin with blackheads, whiteheads & minor acne breakouts. b. dry or dehydrated skin with cell buildup flaking & tight dry surface c. dull, lifeless looking skin (actually has a tremendous buildup of dean skin cells that produce a slight gray color. what does exfoliation refer to - correct answerpeeling or sloughing of the horny (outer layer) of the skin _______is a method of physically rubbing the dead cells off the skin - correct answermechanical exfoliation ______dissolves the intercellular glue by using chemical agents such as AHAs - correct answerchemical exfoliation how do enzymes remove dead skin cells - correct answerspeed up the breakdown of keratin; the protein in skin a. sensitive skin b. skin with visible capillaries c. thin skin that reddens easily d. older skin that is thin & bruises easily e. acne prone skin with inflamed papules & pustules f. skin treated with retinols, accutane, differin, other acne drugs, azelaic acid, AHAs, or salicylic acid - correct answercontraindications for harsh mechanical peel techniques, scrubs, and brushing machines include gommage is a cream type of _____peel that is removed by____ - correct answerenzyme, massage a. tighten and tone skin b. draw impurities out of pores c. clear up blemishes d. hydrate e. nourish f. calm & smooth g. rejuvinate skin, brighten the complexion - correct answermasks and packs offer many benefits. list SEVEN advantages of using these products clay masks draw___to the surface of the skin as they dry and____ - correct answerimpurities, tighten alginate masks are often _____ based and dry to form a____texture - correct answerseaweed, rubberized when do you apply serums and ampoules - correct answerunder a moisturizer mask or massage cream why do serums penetrate deeper into the skin - correct answerthey are formulated with smaller molecules what are ampoules - correct answersmall sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base a. protect thin delicate skin b. firming c. reducing lines d. decreasing puffiness - correct answerlist the benefit of eye creams _____include moisturizing balms and products with collagen derivatives to _____ up the lips. - correct answerlip treatments, plump lotions, hydrators and creams are known as - correct answermoisturizers oil-based moisturizers contain_____They are heavier and occlusive to _____and____under cream. - correct answeremollients, protect the surface and trap water why does oily skin need hydration - correct answerit will produce more oil or become dehydrated if its not balanced treatment creams and massage lotions are different forms of____ - correct answerMoisturizer